Does anyone know or recommend good mechanics shops around Aurora, Colorado who know there way around 1970 Buick GS. Getting ready to tow my car back to the same shop for the 4th consecutive time and I’m all wet. Pro Tech Automotive is supposedly the best in Aurora, Co. I beg to disagree after seeing them change a rear pinion seal 3 times, reseal the transmission pan and change filters twice due to leaks. $2700.00 paid in full April 2017 and I keep going back. Move to Colorado from New Orleans, there is something to be said about southern hospitality and folks who stand behind their name and work. I’m all wet from frustration, if the towing wasn’t free from Hagertys Insurance, I would probably be moving back south by now.
...2700 bucks to change a pinion seal and transmission pan? You better have added two extra zeros by mistake...
Other work included Oil change and filter Adjusted timing and carburetor Installed new power steering pump Check and adjusted drum brakes x 4 Installed Sun Pro Tach Gauges installed Sun Pro Oil Pressure, Battery, Temp Cluster Front end alignment Installed new tail pipe hanger Installed new rear main oil seal Brought car home after 3rd tow to the shop last week ran well no leaks, I never turned ignition off. 98 degrees in Denver so I pulled in garage cut car off would not start or turn over. Brand new Interstate battery 1.5 old......from all my research it has the be a loose or disconnected ground wire fault. Did not have to pay for a lift or shop fees in Louisiana to work on car had friends with access granted. 50 year old car I will need to research where to purchase the right gauge battery cables if diagnosis is correct. This 3 ring circus has to come to end soon as all patience has gone out the window. In the back of my mind I still don’t have confidence in rear pinion seal, I did not get a chance hit the interstate to test it out. Already not that many Buick GS on the road, at car shows or even seen, not I’m thinking not many knowledgeable mechanics shops in Colorado as well. Feels like I’ve cut my throat to blow my nose moving to Colorado. I can’t give up now the good ole Quadra jet still has to rejected for the 2nd time....
Make sure you have the big ground strap from the trans to the body of car at the firewall, Very Important. Could have a bad voltage regulator killing the battery. Check starter connections Hook up a voltage gauge to the battery and you should have at least 13.8 volts with headlights on OR the heater on, but not both. You can go to O'Reilleys or Auto Zone or one of those places to have the battery and and charging checked usually for free. If you can't get to the 13.8 volts it could be a bad voltage regulator. You should get there with nothing on if not change out that voltage regulator. Could be your alternator but usually the light comes on when that goes out. You also need 9.6 volts while cranking motor if less it could be bad connections, bad starter, or the battery is too low. I think if I remember correctly it should holt the 9.6 volts for 10 seconds or so. Disconnect coil wire for this test. But does sound like you are having something draining the battery, disconnect it at night so it does not get drained after charging then hook it back up and let it sit overnight to see if it is going down. You will get plenty of help here so stay tuned.
there is a member of this forum that lives in the Denver area, can't remember his name right now but he's pretty active on here so hopefully he'll chime in soon. Keith
