Glad you didn't go off as I was just pokin at ya. I dunno about basic stuff remember they got to that 500-500 mark in 95% stock parts. Just need a decent shape 350 to send. Though by time I had/have [still payin off my new trans] $2-3000 to spend there is a good good chance ill just slap a Burton Machine twin turbo kit on it and won't do anything major to the engine till I have to. I know my girl has allot left in here as is; I just need to ram it down her throat. I know she can take it
Johhny, do you really expect us to believe you have nearly 10 grand in your engine? Was there gold in that J-B weld? I understand your point but c'mon man, a decent 350 doesn't cost all that much.
when you add in the r&d costs like trying another carb(s), distributor(s), more pistons, buy this, buy that, buying more sbm intakes, sbc, sbf headers, etc. then add in the increase pricing of metal stock. just wanting to do the blower has slowed me because of metal $$$. and the worse part of all this is.....my wife wants to move. if that happens, everything will come to a screeching stop. it will take 2 yrs to get back where i am now if the move doesnt kill me first.
Man that would suck! I hear you about metal prices. I really hope you are able to finish your blower project. It would be sweet!
Need to become friend with a scrapper. They think small and will find or steal metal worth 100 time more thne scrap but still cut it into pieces n scrap it. had to yell at mine, was cutting up 10ft lengths of new 2in hex solid stock into 12in piece to scrap it for pennies a lb.
The V6 girdles are 3/4" thick, the holes for the pan studs are countersunk about half an inch, so you can torque down the pan studs with supplied nuts and "special" washers, before bolting on the pan itself. The main caps are machined flush with the pan rail, and you use .005" shim on top of each cap to "pre-load" the cap when bolting on the girdle. Somewhere I have the installation instructions for the v6 girdle i put on my Turbobuick. It would be pretty simple to make one, i have been meaning to do it myself for years. I was going to take a 3/4" plate, drill two holes in line, spaced for one of the front main bolts and one of the rear main bolts. Then put transfer screws in every pan hole and the other mains, bolt down the plate, tap all around and scribe the outline of the block.. Un-bolt; flame, plasma or hacksaw along the outline, drill the punch marks... you get the idea Wes
Bump to the top. Last I heard Gasoline was going to make girdles however it has been a while since I heard from him.... Time to look at other options...:Comp:
i'm still in if it every happens if not i'll follow on the other option if its a good one..and knowing you it will be
What about getting Jim to make copies of the girdle he used in his 340 build? http://www.v8buick.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=167631&d=1273883207 Regards, Eric
The girdle Jim used was very thin and he used it party to gain clearance for his rods to swing and not hit the oil pan. I do not have a 300 block here to compare the 340 template onto however I can get some rough measurements off of it for you...
I really don't think you need a girdle until you're going over 7 grand regularly, and very few on here do that. I really don't expect to be one of them, but since I needed a spacer anyway I went ahead and tied it into the main studs and it'll help stabilize that end when I do wind it up. If I hadn't needed the spacer I wouldn't have bothered though. JB
