I have put over 32 ounces of brake fluid in the system trying to get a good pedal, but is still soft. When I open any one of the bleeders on the rear (there are four ) fluid comes out, but the front nothing. The system is a Wilwood master cylinder, Wilwood rear (disk) and factory front disk. I have many times done factory brakes with no problems at all, but this time it does not want to get a firm pedal. Do I need to power bleed the system ? Does anyone make a power bleed system that will attach to a Wilwood master cylinder ?
Yes, is all new. I followed all the instructions that are in the kits. Wondering if anyone had a problem with the final bleeding.
You get nothing out of the front? Is the pressure low out of the rear? Are you sure the rod in the booster is adjusted right?
I do get fluid out just have to pull it out unlike the back (which are Wilwood) I just need to open and get flow. The rod could be longer and adjusted all the way out. I took the power brakes off years ago so it is all manual now. Where can I get a longer rod ? :grin:
You may have to pull the switch out of the center and then pump up the pressure to make the plunger go to the center position again.
Most cars have a combination valve, so named because it combines several functions into one assembly. The combination valve includes a proportioning valve, a hold off valve, and the brake warning valve. In 70 and earlier cars, the hold off valve is separate from the other 2 valves. The hold off valve holds off pressure to the front brakes until the rear system develops some pressure. The idea is disc brakes are inherently instant acting because the pads are always very close to the rotor. The back drum brakes have some operating clearances and spring tension to overcome before they apply. In the chassis manual, they tell you to defeat the hold off valve when you bleed the brakes. This is accomplished by pushing in the valve stem which is located under a rubber boot. It will be on the separate hold off valve, or one end of the combination valve. Some get away without ever doing this, but some have problems when bleeding brakes. Don't know if this is the problem, but it is one possibility.
I will look for the reset and draw more fluid through the calipers to try and get all the air out. It feels to me that the air is in the front brakes.
Dis-connect the brake line for the front brakes at the master cyl. Screw the CORRECT size bolt in the hole, not too tight or just crimp the front hoses. Try the pedal now. If it's hard the problem is in the front. If not, then you can either crimp the rear brake hose or remove the line from the master & do the same with a bolt. If the pedal is now good it can be a combination of both front & rear. If the pedal is STILL soft the master hasn't been bleed properly or the M/C is bad.
Got it done. Have a good pedal now. Need to dive it around the neighborhood. Let keeps our fingers crossed....................
The soft pedal fix was I lifted the rear end about two feet higher than the front and bled the front some more and left the car in the air over night. Did another fix tonight so hopefully I can drive it tomorrow when it is light. Started doing this when the engine went over 5500 RPMs. This the piping from the Procharger to the hat. Doug Gorton gave me the idea to put small tack welds around the tube for the clamp to bite into.
Brakes worked better than before, the pipe stayed together, but still will not shift into high under power . Need to get the pedal higher so the brake lights will go off.
