I can't seem to get the flare nuts to loosen from my distribution block!!! I'm swapping to disc front and need to switch the dist. block for the disc setup. Can I heat up the block to get them to loosen? Didn't think that is a good idea because of the heat to the fluid. Any and all help is appreciated!!! Thanks, P.D.
Soak them with several days with a pentrating oil like Mouse Milk. It may take severla applcations with a brush. Be sure to use a line wretch for the finale.
I didnt think you could milk mice? How many mice does it take to fill one can Jim?? My personal preference is something called "Kroil". Comes in an orange can. PB Blaster works well too...just in case you cant find any mice uzzled:
I agree, soak them in your fav fluid, WD 40, what ever and then I use a big pair of channel lock pliers or Vise Grips. The key is to get a good grip and not round off the flare nuts. Always use a good quality line wrench first. Then take a file and square up the nut if you distort it. Good luck.
As you can see from the amount left in the bottle I am at the ten year mark, which also corresponds with being on my second bottle of tobasco sauce. :laugh: PB and Kroil also work well. A flare nut wrench is a good call too. hmm.. picture didn't make it.. oh well
PD, That's not a good sign as you have discovered. If I were you, I would carefully inspect "all" brake lines. Since you are going to be opening the system anyways, I would strongly suggest replacing all lines with new ones. You can get them from www.inlinetube.com or www.classictube.com I think a complete set runs about $150-175. You lines are severally corroded and that has caused the rust problem you have now. The brake fluid is alcohol based and readily absorbs water/moisture(hydroscopic) which cause rust/corrosion. If you plan on keeping the car, install silicone brake fluid and you will never had corrosion problems again.
I use vice-grips - though I usually replace the lines. They will score up the flare nut. This will not affect them except that it might be hard to use a wrench on them in the future.
Use some heat. I never had a problem getting a brake bleeder lose if I give it a sec or two of heat. Should work the same. Used a pen tourch the last time.
I agree 100%. It also makes removing the problem fittings a snap- with a hacksaw :grin: By the way, the junction block is often thought to be a proportioning valve in a drum brake car. Usually it's simply the brake light warning switch- if one side of the block loses pressure, like during a leak, the pressure forces a switch to make ground and it lights up your warning light on the dash
loosen lines I to am just finishing a Disc. Brake conversion. Had no problens removing the proportion lines. I used Pb . Blaster and a line wrench. Busted them loose then tapped the line while twisting the line fitting slightly back and fourth and relubing till they broke loose. I recomend not using heat ,to not dammage the internal valve piston, even though others have .Also it would be great to order the exact new replacment lines, But i used the original fittings after bead blasting them and bought new tubing , then I used the old line as a guide to bend the same shape {curves}. Then you have to use a double flair tool to reflair the cut off end after sliding on the reconditioned fittings. NEVER USE VISE GRIPS, if you plan on reusing the old fittings if in goon condition, so not to mangle them . But if rounded off that may be the only way. Now you have to decide on the ouiginal look also . The originals ive seen have a spring type wire wraped around them. Their usually rusted .Depends on what look you want and how much you want to spend i guess.
I've used PB Blaster for years and love the stuff. After soaking it use a flare nut wrench and snap it quick. That should do the trick, unless there's a more serious problem. If everything is as badly rusted as we all assume, then its time for a line replacement. If that's the case. just cut the lines and use a 6 point socket. I did this with my 70 GS. I bent the fronts myself. Two sore thumbs later I ordered the rest from Fine Lines in Ohio. Nice stuff, but should've gotton Stainless Steel. I converted to DOT 5 Fluid. Also nice stuff. They say it's compatible with DOT 3 or 4, but I don't think that's true. When bleeding the system you could see little globs of stuff that used to be DOT 3 fluid. When your done your peddle will feel different. I think its a little softer, but it stops the same. Good Luck.
