It should be the same as TA 1510. The "modified" version, TA 1510A is a specialty part TA sells for the big block. If you plan to install the kit, be prepared to verify gear end clearance as I mentioned in your other thread http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=170222 . Devon
It really should be done with a straight edge & feeler gages. I'll link to another thread for more info. Devon
im still losing oil pressure if the car idles for more then a few minutes. guess its off with the oil pump to check on those clearances!
Oil pump gear end clearance info: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=81817 http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=166234 Devon
just put the TA kit in and call it good I did and now i have 25-30 at idle simple and cheaper than a motor
I don't understand you guys. 10-15 at idle is GOOD for a 350! You need to put a tach on the engine, rev it to 5k and tell us the pressure then.:Smarty: Do NOT put 20w-50 in that motor. You got good pressure with 10w-30. I wish I was as lucky as you. Tell us the max pressure before you start tearing things apart.
If it's quiet now that the pressure is higher (for whatever reason that might be) then I'd agree, as long as pressure rises with rpm accordingly. But as of post #24, it sounds like he's back where he started at 6-8 psi. If it's back to making noise as well, it can be irritating as hell. Devon
bingo. sometimes it goes as low as 5psi and with that it cannot keep the engine oiled enough and the lifters start rattling like crazy. if you were to rev it up you get 40 or so psi and the engine quiets down but i can only imagine the damage being done while at idle so the timing cover is coming off, modified like previously stated with a TA booster kit installed maybe then i can enjoy this stupid car haha
OK. Throw a booster plate and a adjustable regulator on there. And use 10w-30 FIRST. There is no benefit to running higher weight oil "for the hell of it".
i dont run 20-50 for the hell of it. i run it cause my cars never see below 40* temps year round and the summertime is easily 105* every day. factor in stop and go driving and the thicker oil starts to make sense. never had a problem before. i understand where you are coming from though
20/50 ins't even that thick. Warm an engine up to normal op temp with 20/50 and pull that drian plug. Stuff flow like water. When Im beating on it like I stole it I feel safer then with 10-30 between my metal parts. And has yet to fail me all these years.
so devon if my problem is the pressure is too low would i be safe just getting the Oil Pump Shim Kit from TA without the booster plate kit? if my pressure is fine at driving speeds then i doubt i need a booster plate but im not sure for reference the Oil Pump Shim Kit is part #TA_1704 http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1704
Bryon, the problem is that you really have no idea what the cause of your low pressure is. It can be worn bearings, internal leaks, stuck relief valve, scored oil filter housing, scored front cover, worn gears, any combination of the above plus probably other things. The booster plate is an easy fix for a scored filter housing and may help if that's a large contributor to your problem. You simply can't know unless you start inspecting things. If you find worn gears and or filter housing, you could possibly crutch the thing short-term with thinner shims, but with this kind of thinking we're getting to the point you're just treating symptoms rather than finding the root cause(s). Devon
Again, the issue isn't running at operating temp...it's the 20W factor at colder temps that's just plain hard on things, and there's simply no reason to contribute at all to any kind of premature wear whatsoever. If for a street/strip engine someone is suffering the 20W in the cold to get the 50 at temp then they have other problems that should be addressed. For the kind of builds we're talking about you should run on the thinner side so long as pressure is where it needs to be. If what you "feel" is worth it to you, that's all well & good...but don't try to advise someone else as to what is right/wrong with nothing more than that to back it up. Devon
If shaking twice is enough for you that's your business. But I shall not smell of pee. Yea though I walk through the valley of 20/50 I fear no start up wear. As duralube art with me. The lack of rod or piston noise comforts me. And I shall stick with what I know best. Wise me thinks I am hehehehehhehe
guys im running castrol gtx 10-30w right now. havent actually committed to changing the oil. i literally have 10 miles on the used engine (brand new oil) as it sits but the actual miles on the engine are unknown. i suppose at this point its time to tear into the timing cover and oil pump but i just finished the engine swap on this car and im looking to fix this thing without having to tear the motor completely apart and/or spend $xxx amount of money, you know? my only issue is low oil pressure at idle and thats the tail im chasing
I still stick with my original suggestion. Leave the cover on, pop the filter housing off. You can then inspect the housing, gears and inside of the oil pump cavity on the pocket for wear. If all looks fine, you just need a gasket to button it up again. Once you get the pump apart, post good photos so we can see what you're up against. If it looks like it needs help, we'll probably suggest new gears and the booster plate. You can then reassemble the pump, though you'll be fighting gravity. Devon
