My first thought was do you need a girdle it weights30-35 pounds How bought dowel pinning the mains 1/2 dowels and using a haylo.ran my car at the Nat it weighted 3625 with464init it went some 10.60 ran in pro street got killed every but me was runnig nines 10 inch ATI conv is killing me i am getaconverter shortly we had the car over at friend shop on a wheel dyno it made 540hp 6000rpm at the wheels and 516 tq 4750 rpm the car you shift it at 5800 from 2-3 it drops down to 3800 it takes sometime to get to 6000rpm we figured it need to brake stall 4200-4500 I want step to the plate build a bigger motor i have 484 setup not shure the crank will hold up to make 800 HP. I thought about a stroker crank is th Crower better with strait shot oiling to the main or is Moldex the way to go i talk to the guy from Moldex he told me 6-8 week. People that have purchased cranks took them Six months or better to get them. The weight on these cranks 82-92 pound then lighting them up $3500 crank I want motor that will rev 4.360 bore with 4.400 525 in doesnt seem to rev on my Dyno 2000 its more of a Torque motor. I was thinking 4.360 bore 4.250 stroke 507 in bigger bore shorter stroke works good not shure on cam i have roller would like to go to a nother roller cam specs have a tuff time trying to make 800 with one carb what i have done put a 1250cfm carb 14.5 comp with roller cam i cam up with it made 810hp at 6500rpm with a 484 i dont no if the crank is going hold up . What about Dowel pinning the mains and running a haylo
Since the main webs in the block are the main problem, a halo will only help stabilize some of the flexing. A gidle helps spread some of the load to the pan rail. A band-aid at best, but the best we've got at the moment.
Larry How fast do you want to go? You can lighten up the car more that will help. But if you want to run a motor that will rev you will need to stay smaller in my opinion I know a couple of the Q-16 guy that push there stuff to 7000 but they do have good stuff in there and to be honest they break stuff doing it. If you were to lighten your car up you can build a smaller in motor and run some good numbers. I think the key to making big power is in the heads and intake 75% of the horse power you will make comes from there. I know I am forever going back to this but look at the GSE cars they have to weigh 3800 pounds and run well into the low 10.00's. And I can tell you for a fact that you can run in the 9's with one of these cars weighing 3752#:grin: . That is with a 470-inch motor shifting at 6500 and running it through at 7000. The motor has a flat tappet cam and 14 to 1 comp. There are a few things more than just a strong motor to get the car really Quick there are several guy's on this board that have cars that haul some serious butt without huge motors. I think you have my number if you want to talk more about this stuff.
I'm with Bobb. Work on you air flow and your weight. THe stock crank will take a good beating. I'm still trying to break mine. I'd put the money in beefing up the block with a girdle and getting good port work done to the heads and intake. Stick with a solid flat tappet cam for now. Unless you have a large budget for a motor, the crank and roller are expensive options if you ask me. If your looking to get more stall out your converter a 125 HP nitrous shot will do it.:Brow:
