Thx. Tbh, I don't remember what the rods I have are (you prob. do). I do look @ 'em once in a while though. I'm slowly accumulating everything to build one (2 actually).
You need feeler gages. Different thicknesses of ground wire, bent to check rod corner to cam lobe clearance while slowly rotating the crank with timing chain on & degreed.
Dano, those are Pankl 6.350's the pin end needs honing to .750 & big end narrowed to stock rod width.
Yep, pita compared to wire gage. I asked Mike at TA how much clearance is good, and he said he sees lobes hitting rod corners all the time. Said .020 was good, I went to .030, same on crank throw to cam lobes. Gotta be some flexing going on!
I thought Pankl but wasn't sure. Knew the big ends needed narrowing. Some specs. written on the box (maybe by you). Need to call the crank shop that was recommended and see if they do offset grinds & whether they do any other operations (i.e. narrowing rods). Just picked up an already parted 73k mi Skylark w/a locked up engine (it wasn't locked up a gear ago) that might be my starting point for one engine. Both cars came w/supposedly rebuilt/#'s matching engines. Someday I'll have see what's inside them. Convertible will probably get it's orig. engine & a more mild build. Picked up a Gessler ported iron intake not long ago.
These were a nice set. Larger .830 pin dia too! https://www.ebay.com/itm/2250277959...EcNVg3TRSm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Snowmobile wrist pins? Yeah, maybe they are. Only 70 grams. With a 450 gram piston that works pretty well. The 7" rods are 550 gram and are Scat FHF with the 2" journal. Turned out an 11lb flywheel was just a smidge light for street use in a 2700lb car, who knew? But I do like that engine. The stroker 300 though uses the Carillo 6.2" rods with the 1.88" journals (stock 350 stroke) and has the roller cam It also needed some work for rod clearance. They use the Chevy sized wrist pins which may last a little longer IDK. I've yet to wear out wrist pins, who can say? One thing I found out, all Buick cams can be considered "reduced base circle" cams because the limiting factor is the diameter of the circle represented by the peak of the lobe, that being cam journal size. Any increase in lift has to come out of the base circle. So in reality the only concern is duration. If your lobe clears the rod even with the timing chain removed it will always clear no matter what cam is fitted. This does mean you have to buy longer pushrods for that high lift cam. Jim
I think my tightest was .038 Some said that’s kinda close, but I’ve revved it to 7 grand numerous times, it was fine.
Sounds like you could cheat a little with a lower lift cam to help with clearance,but use a higher ratio rocker to get it back.
Yep, Lots of ways to skin this 350 cat...just ask Johnny. Custom everything and make it the way you want it!
I dunno Mart, if it clears the lobe tip regardless of the relative position of the cam and crank then the width of the lobe isn't going to matter, it can't hit. Jim
Yep, you know the mockup deal. Gotta see what's what. Roll it over carefully with a small mirror. Hey, I put mine together and it hasn't blown up yet. It's kinda fun experimenting!
I'm using 6.370 rods with arp bolts, crank was turned to 1.889, block bored .60 for a grand total of 368.850, so let's just call it a 369 CID stroker. Had plenty of room in there....
Stroke it and blow it, you only live once and time goes really fast. That crank is getting cold starting to look like a museum piece.
I'm only getting 365.62 Enter The Bore: 3.860 Enter The Stroke: 3.9055 Enter Number of cylinders: 8 Engine is 365.62 CID or 6.0 liters
