What is the best epoxy for this. I got a little forcefull scrubbing part of the package tray for the Riv and broke off this tab thiing that will need to "slot" in and "engage" during installation.
pictures please! there are too many guesses and ont 5 o4 solutins - wgat happenwhen you tyop and sleep
Wha??????:sleep: Thanks, I was thinking about the ol' modeling glue. Just think there has to be somethig better maybe? Other than a plastic welder....:beer
I haven't had much luck with plastic glues, especially when the part is other than cosmetic. Ever since the glue-sniffing era and EPA concern over VOCs, available plastic glues just haven't done the job for me. Having spoken to a dash restorer, I know there are glues/solvents that work...they're just not available "over-the-counter." The restorer wouldn't give me his glue "trade secrets," which I understand and respect. Maybe someone on the forum has found a source for "professional grade" glues/solvents and is willing to share...
the part will either be pvc plastic or abs plastic & each uses a different glue. u will have to determine which it is & then purchase the appropriate glue.
testors plastic model glue will only bond polystyrene. there is a "universal" plumbing glue for pvc, abs, cpvc. that you could try. i used it on my grill and seemed to work great. (as long as your not gap filling) using the correct glue will actually chemically weld the two parts back together (and is why it dosen't work for gap filling). The problem is you rarely know what type of material it is. and in our era of cars there is no recycling symbol molded into it to tell you what type it is either. if gap filling, then an epoxy is the only way to go. or welding welding the material.
You will need to ID the type of plastic first. There are tests such as lighting a piece with a match, and seeing if there is black smoke, dropping a piece in water to see if it floats, and stuff like that. A Google search should give you more than enough info.
Walt Google is not my friend...ou: If it helps, it is part of the package tray in my 71. Think Brandy will want to know why I'm setting fire to my interior?????p
I don't know what kind of plastic they used back then, but that can make a difference. This is the gauge panel I made for my Charger with a sheet of ABS plastic from a stereo shop. You can see the line down the left side, because I didn't measure right the first time. Luckily it's not very visible in the car. But I used Gorilla Super Glue to put the spacer in, and it holds wonderfully. Just a thought.
I have been using a two part system from 3M--DuraMix. THe stuff is not cheap compared to other stuff but works very well. I will have to try to remember to look which p/n we use at work. There are several to chose from depending on what you are trying to fix, what setup speed you want etc... THe 'gun' you use to apply it is kinda pricy I think, and you can only use each tip once, as the stuff dries inside of it. I have used it to fix countless inner door panels, plastic trim, bond alum and potmetal together etc... Every dealership I have worked in and most of the better independent shops I have been in use it. here is the first link I got when I googled it, I don't know anything about this company selling it but it gives an idea of some of the different mixtures and prices. http://www.autobodysupply.net/category-s/79.htm I am sure your local parts house can get it. We get ours through NAPA.
Acetone is something I have used. You can even mix in some fine plastic shavings with the acetone to create a "paste" that will help fill small voids. If the part is a structural component that is required to hold something firmly in place though, I haven't had much luck keeping the pieces together for long. Good luck, Randy
Two part epoxy worked really well for any of the hard plastic parts in my old VW. Used it to repair all kinds of crack in the shifter counsul, but it was a hard plastic...the kind that just snaps. It's called Plastic Weld, found it at NAPA but availible in lots of Auto Parts stores. If the repair is hidden it workes well..allows you to build up around the repair. Wait till it sets and you can trim back/smooth with a dremel. If the repair is visable it get kinda ugly. Sometimes if it's a big tab you can reinforce it with a little sliver of thin spring steel (found some inside an old computer, trimmed to fit with the dremel) If it's a flexible plastic this stuff won't work.
Regarding plastic, one of the plastic tabs where the screw hole is ( on the plastic heater/ac interior ductwork broke off. Does anybody know what type of plastic the duct it made of and which glue and/or epoxy would be appropriate for this repair. Btw, I did not break it, but found it broke when I received the car, 70 GS. thanks, Steve
Hi Steve. I'm in possession of a fantastic glue that you might want to check out. Found it while attending "Hot August Nights" up in Reno, Nevada. It's called Mxbon105 (Professional Cyanoacrylate Adhesive). Here is the website listed on the package. Watched the guy go through his spiel & demonstration and was quite amazed with this product. I use it in modeling and it works SUPER. Good luck with your repairs. Jim www.utopiatools.com
Professional grade super glue. You can get it in different thickness and dry times. Also you can use a Accelerator with it. Available at your local Hobby Store. For grilles, I have always used PVC cement and filled holes with a two part epoxy:TU:
