POR-15. Rust Bullet. Eastwood products. Other. Who has used what and what worked the best for bare metal and or rust covering? I know that the POR-15 is UV sensitive. I am looking for something to paint the inside of my fenders with. This area is not really seen or exposed to UV. Also front frame area and the firewall.
I really like the POR-15. It is "killer" stuff. One thing I like especially is that it is very self leveling. But... don't get any on your skin. It takes almost a week to wear it off. Been there and done that. Use rubber gloves!!!
>>I've used POR-I5 on the underside of my car and I was very happy with it - though I did get some on my skin and had to literally sand some of my skin off to remove the POR-15. I also have used Rust Bullet which my GS hood was primed with before painting and it came out good as well.
Eastwood products is all I use, great results, sprays really nice. I like the fact that the rust inhibitor and the chassis black is compatable. Spary one, wait, scuff, spray two and your done. I've heard nothing but good on the Por products, just never used them. I still think good prep is the key. Rich Here's a link: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=131591
This is Rust Bullet. Not quiet 2 years old. I sandblasted the whole trailer down to the bare steel and applied 2 coats of Rust Bullet no cover coat , the trailer frame was sprayed, the wheel rims were brushed.:shock: Bruce
Prep is the key with por15. The rougher the better and the thickness of the paint it is key. Their metal prep is expensive and I only use it on bare metal. I use phosphoric acid on rusted metal until it is all gone. Sometimes I have to leave the metal wet for 3-5 hours to accomplish this, then I use the por metal prep for 15 min, then rinse. The por15 metal prep is a mixture of zinc and phosphoric acid so their are no chemical reaction problems. If I used the por15 metal prep until the rust is gone it would cost a mint. I don't believe in covering rust or rust convertors. I just bought some Eastwood Chasis black and I'm doing an experiment today with it top coating the 2nd coat of uncured por15. The Eastwood dealer I bought it from said you can apply to bare metal so I thought maybe it would etch into cured por15 but it didn't. I've top coated por15 in the past with lacquer and acrylic enamal before the 2nd coat has dried and never had a problem. This Eastwood Chasis black is an epoxy so we'll see. Ray
Eastwoods rust encapsulator is fully compatable with Chassis Black. They work very nicely together. I agree, I get rid of the rust first, then coat. I don't need rust showing up a few years later after all the hard work. Rich
I've seen Eastwoods rust encapsulator results used on bare metal and agree it works great. Far better than anything the factory used. I just think the por15 adhears to bare metal better and into the tight places, and dries rock hard. You also wear that stuff for a week if it gets on you so I figure it gets into the metal that much better which is the reason for the experiment. I also like the finish of the Eastwood Chasis Black and is not UV sensitive. Ray
Finally got around to experiment with the Eastwood Chasis Black over the por15. It worked great using a first coat of por15, let it cure for 2hrs then an other coat, let it cure another 2hrs and then top coated with Eastwood Chasis Black. As for the other statement I made of the Chasis Black not adhearing to the cured por15 I scratched it off with my fingernail 24hrs after at the time. However 48hrs after it would not flake off (I did a scraping test) so it did etch itself into the cured por15. Just posting the facts as I said I would. The Chasis Black is a little to shiney for a factory look just so you know. Perhaps it will fade a bit over time like the por15 as it got milky lookin with a white tinge to it and that was just was from being in a garage for a year, no UV rays. Ray
