best oil for 401 Nailhead

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by BlackPumpkin, Nov 4, 2007.

  1. BlackPumpkin

    BlackPumpkin ComputerGuy turned CarGuy

    I'm gonna do the first oil change in a while on this engine, and I need a couple confirmations and such.

    I'm thinking that either 10w-30 or 20w-50 would be the best, since I live in Florida, but what would you choose?

    Also, I'm trying to err on the side of caution with the Zinc thing, and I'd like to use synthetic oil, so are there any synthetics with the proper amount of Zinc? If not, what's the best additive to take care of that, and where can I buy it?

    Also, is there such a thing as an "original type" oil filter? I'm not gonna worry about it right now, but it'd be a nice touch later on.
     
  2. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

  3. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    I used to run 20w-50 synthetic until I spun that rod bearing. :af: I think it is too heavy and shears at high rpm's when the oil is cold. :Do No: Now I run 10w-40 synthetic and resist temptation until I'm sure she's warmed up enough. :Dou:
     
  4. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    viscosity is what keeps the parts from rubbing together.
     
  5. TAANK

    TAANK Well-Known Member

    shell rotella diesel oil 10 w 30
     
  6. yacster

    yacster Lv the gun tk the Canolis

    Rotella T 15-40W and B&G MOA additive. Used to have a nasty lifter tick, then used the MOA. No more lifter tick and she runs niiiiiccce:TU:

    Tough to find B&G products, you have to buy them from a participating shop or there is a place on the internet but they pumped up the price some. Just google B&G products
     
  7. chasanderson

    chasanderson Well-Known Member

    Factory manual calls for 10w-30 or straight 20w for temps above 20 deg.
    I use 20w.
     
  8. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    Mine does that when it's hot with 10w-30 dino oil.
     
  9. jimtash

    jimtash Well-Known Member

    I'm using 5w-30 semi sythetic and it leaks out the rear main so I'm going to be forced to use regular dino oil. At Wal-Mart of all places, they sell a 10w-40 oil made for pre-1988 cars with a rating of SG I believe and I might try that. The only thing that concerns me with it though is that it says on the bottle that it won't protect newer car engines from sludge build-up, but what about older cars? Especially ones with carburetors where there's bound to be oil contamination just from normal use.
     
  10. JimJames

    JimJames Well-Known Member

  11. BlackPumpkin

    BlackPumpkin ComputerGuy turned CarGuy

    I think I'm gonna go with 10W-30, as it is the most readily available. I don't need anything truly special, since it's gonna be only streeting, no racing.

    Would it be advisable to use the Valvoline racing oil that already has the ZDDP in it in a street car? Is it not street legal because of the ZDDP, or is it something else?

    The car dealership I work at uses Valvoline oil for the lube shop, and the parts manager said he might be able to get me some.

    If I do go with the Valvoline racing oil, would that be enough zinc for me? Or should I try to find the BG MOA or some of that new ZddPlus stuff?
     
  12. wondallace

    wondallace Well-Known Member

    delo 400 hands down
     
  13. CTX-SLPR

    CTX-SLPR Modern Technology User

    I'm running Castrol 10W-40 High Mileage in mine. Can't comment on it being good or bad but I'm so far happy with it. I somehow doubt its causing the consuption problem I was having, I think thats due to it running hot and having a loose headbolt.
     
  14. ahhh65riv

    ahhh65riv Well-Known Member

  15. 64BuickCat

    64BuickCat Geaux Tigers! L-S-U!!!

    From what I read, any of the Valvoline racing oils should work fine. I wouldn't worry about the "Oil Gestapo" coming to arrest you for using racing oil in a street driven car. Valvoline probably has to put some type of disclaimer on the bottle to appease the all-mighty EPA.
     

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