Look on the Chevelle sites. My guess is you will find a kit if its available there. I would look at putting a 5 speed in it. You can run a much higher gear in the rear and when you put it in 5th you won't be tacking so high.
Alot of Chevelle parts aren't direct crossovers for our Buicks. The different geometry involved with the ball stud on a Buick 455 changes things. A Chevelle kit may be able to be made to work, but itll be far from a plug and play install. Heck, my hydraulic clutch kit from American power train that was designed for a Chevelle wasn't even a direct install, and that's without all the mechanical linkages.
Best kit is to find a beat up 4 speed car. It will have every thing you need. I found a frame and body destroyed 71gs 4 speed for 300 bucks and got every single part needed for the swap to build a killer 72 suncoupe 455 4 speed . individually parts would have easily been thousands. Granted these finds are very rare ok once in a lifetime, but purchasing parts individually will Nickle and dime you to death. And there is a lot. Electrical harnesses. console, column, Speedo, m21, driveshaft, cross member,flywheel pressure plate clutch, linkage, reverse lock out linkage and switches,pedals,bellhousing,trans hump,z bar,clutch fork,shifter and that's just the big stuff. There's the Speedo cable and small odds and ends too.
Also, from my own experience, there is a an automatic block and a standard block. I am converting from auto to 5-speed Tremec and I am going with a hydraulic clutch setup because the block would have to be drilled for the z-bar...so I was told...
Your block may not be drilled for the ball stud which supports the z bar on the right hand side. This can be handled. However, your crankshaft may not be drilled for bearing that supports the input shaft of your transmission. A hydraulic clutch set up does not avoid this more serious issue.
Having done a couple conversions....I suggest you continue to do your homework and budget accordingly. Here is a thread on converting using mechanical clutch parts and a stock approach.... http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...tic-to-Manual-Transmission-68-72-BUICK-A-Body ...and here is a thread converting to hydraulic t/o bearing and hydraulics clutch... http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?296487-Hydraulic-Clutch-Conversion-chime-in-here
I have a '70 SF block from a Riv; factory drilled and tapped for ball stud; crank factory drilled for input shaft bushing. I think it is all in the luck of the pull (from the bone yard).
I forgot to mention that...yes the stick shift pilot bearing was machined into the crankshaft, a big thank you to Dick Miller Racing...
To do it correctly,and make it look like it was always there,with every correct piece,yes,it adds up. My complete,restored packages are $4500.00 Most of the repop vendors sell conversions that consist of Chevelle parts. The pedals are slightly different that Buick,and the z-bar is usually a copy of the Buick geometry,but does not look like the factory Buick z-bar. It all depends on how correct you want it.
I had Forgot about the block and crank differences. My 68 430 had the block drilled for the z bar but the crank was not drilled for a standard pilot bushing. After extensive research it was clear there was no off the shelf pilot bushing that would work so I had a machine shop turn one to fit. Also there is wide variety of bushing quality. Use a magnet to make sure you get a true non ferous bearing bushing. It should not be magnetic but most are. Took a lot of trial and error to find a non magnetic one that would not gall the input shaft.ou:
I just put a 76 455 from an Electra into a 4 speed car. Had to drill and tap for the ball stud, but the crank needed nothing but a little cleanup with sandpaper to install the pilot bushing. No doubt there are a lot of pieces to a 4 speed car, but it also depends how original you want it. I would go directly to a hydraulic system and a 5 or 6 speed if you didn't care about originality.
My motor is a 73 big car (Electra I believe) and it required no mods for the z-bar or pilot bushing. Dave Kleiner of GS enterprises has all the stuff you need but he does prefer to sell in packages/sets The pedals are unique to Buick but the bracket holding them is the same as an Auto, so you only need the pedals and bolts/bushings (easier than swapping the whole bracket) If you use a munci, find a 71+ so it has fine spline in and out, its the same length as the TH400, no drive shaft mod needed I used same cross member you will need new longer speedo cable OPGI supplied all shifter linkage and reverse lockout, shifter, clutch linkage etc clutch fork was provided by a board member (wheelz) The firewall plate from an auto can be made to work by drilling out the hole for the clutch linkage (wheelz did mine) Flywheel came from TA I believe The Parts Place supplied the z-bar use a floor hump from a 67 chevelle WITH console I used a regular clutch kit from Autozone clutch safety start switch is the same as Pontiac (repro) Shifter handle is unique to Buick too
