What would be best for more drag than street in an A body 4 speed 373 geared Buick? After market Eaton, Auburn, or truetrac? And any thoughts on the aluminum 1350 yoke? Also the Axle studs 1/2"x2" knurled or screw in? Thanx
Eaton or spool , I myself wouldnt touch an Auburn with a 10ft pole and someone elses hand on the end of it. Jmo aluminum yoke look nice but id go forged or billet steel, screw studs will require little more attention as they can back out
If strictly drag...cant beat a spool If its a street car that may see trac weather drag or auto-x/road race cant beat a torsen/worm gear unit like the eaton tru trac for an 8.5 If you have a 12 bolt wavetrac If ford 9in either s trac or platnium track
Aluminum anything is for BIG boys that have sponsers to replace worn parts. Aluminum just can not do the longevity as steel - It is for lightening and getting every little bit of ET and weight you can and I doubt your looking for 1000 of secs in your ET. Same with Drive shafts do not do it. Do steel for what most do it is the best strength, economy and longevity - Drag racing will depend on the speed of your car and how often you go racing... You really need to evaluate HOW MUCH racing your actually going to do to pick. Eaton type clutch unit or true trac and do not forget about the axles... AGAIN back to the power? HOW MUCH torque and when does it hit 4 speed alone throw a RED FLAG when we build a rear... Customer has full control over the stall in a 4 SPEED and that will destroy a rear and drive line parts QUICK.... So if you're a serious clutch dumper and using slicks you better prepare to change spiders a lot... This is where the spool is essential. Too much street driving with a spool will get old and annoying. Really it is all in your lap. Jim J D
Sorry, not sure what this means? (when does it hit 4 speed along through a RED FLAG) The 8,5 10 bolt has eaton 373 and is on its last leg. want to run slicks at times and I know it will not get me home after that. I think I will go with a Moser 12 housing, Eaton with hard after market spiders, and 33 spline axles with a 1350 steel yoke. if something brakes I will still have a housing to try the true trac. This car is a 71,72 skylark with little mods all over the car. It has been a stress reliever for years! it has a bored 455 aluminum/steel flywheel, centerforce clutch, linkage is nice,, the trany is Muncie 21 and when I get traction I think it will break or stretch as well.
if you go with 12bolt get it with ford torino ends scandc.com has a good price on bolt in 12bolt axle. also check out the Wavetrac if you are considering the trutrac
God I was just writing faster than my brain could handle plus i am in a rush to get it all down in the thread so i can get back to work...lol. Sorry. Try to read it now. Jim
What ratio... I have the strange dana 60 with 4.10 gears your not gonna bust that one...lol. JIm 1800.00 takes it
Don't know how much HP or torque. got to love the pull she gives. When it rains its a drifter, when cool and dry, front wheel lifter. The dana is how much heaver than a moser 12? That is a dam good price but a little raitio diff. from 373 .. Its under 4 feet of snow now maybe june befor I can get it out -27 this morning!!!
27 this morning??? TRY -7 Akron, Ohio I am sure this is not cold for MN or WI (you guys are suppose to love this weather NOT US!) Man, we have had ENOUGH of winter here.... 3 months NO sight of grass anywhere...lol Jim Swap Meet tomorrow will be there 4am that is gonna feel GoooooooDDDDDDD JImou:
No, Jim, that was MINUS 27. Minus 30 in antigo, WI. This winter flat-out sucks. Great price on the rear, wish I could swing it :/
My thoughts are 12 bolt but those 4 second fastest NMCA cars with a bunch of Nitrous need more. I talked to one of those guys running a Regal and he said he was bending the tubes in a 12 bolt. He had all the good stuff because he had a semi and a full racing trailer. His Regal was all fiberglass and tube chassis. He had a BBC in it with 5 stages of nitrous just to run 3 or 4 seconds in the 1/8th. I wanted to tell him that I could do that with the new Buick block but I didn't want to lie since I haven't tried that. If you have a Dana more power to you! Give it hell and see how it holds up because that is the one I would go to if the 12 bolt didn't hold up!:TU::beer
When that level is reached any rear is gonna bend tubes , thats when you brace it, welded bar from each tube along bottom of center section with seam weld on the center section and same thing done in front of the housing to keep tubes from moving forward, it takes around ALOT of power to run 4's 2000plus and each tenth takes another 2 to 300 hp thats why so many stages once in the bottom 6's the hp required to drop tenths goes up almost exponentialy
I said that to him and he said no it didn't work but he has a lot of money so we won't know the outcome exactly if you know what I mean.
Yeah, I wouldn't go near an auburn either, at least pay any money for one. Eaton or True-trac ar good for the street. I'm running a mini-spool in one of my street cars right now and it is getting a bit old. I have a True-trac in an aftermarket 9" rear in my Skylark and ran the weaker s-spring equivalent to the Eaton in an 8.5" before that, and both work well.
We-l-l-l, i was hoping to see someone say "Auburn gear". not having any knowledge about gears or which ones are best i recently purchased an Auburn 342 limited slip (slightly used). was driven less than 3 thousand miles. the owner had purchased this one for his "restored to original" condition 76' monte carlo. wasn't familiar with the lower gear ratio and didn't like the way it wound his small block engine. i'm not even sure it will fit the rearend housing of my 71' buick skylark. but for 150.00 bucks i thought i was making a great purchase. let me have your thoughts on this.
It will function ok for the most part just keep sticky tires and over 400hp away from it and yes if it was in his 76 monte it will fit yours scratch that are we talkin the gears or the posi carrier
There is nothing wrong with the Auburn posi units as GM used them in all the Buick Olds Pontiac from 1964-1972 AND in all the 1978-1996 GM cars full size and G-body and F-body etc. IF they were that bad GM never would have used these units in there cars. Period. It is just Human nature to like things that can be rebuilt and used what we think is beyond normal time... How you drive will play a large factor in how long all units will hold. The big thing YOU have to worry about is how the person before you TREATED the unit before you. cross your fingers you received a GOOD used unit. I always try to sell NEW where ever and when ever I can.
