Atomic EFI install

Discussion in 'High Tech for Old Iron' started by gs_jimmy, Feb 26, 2018.

  1. 1973gs

    1973gs Well-Known Member

    The tach terminal on a HEI ignition is not a good signal for EFI. , I would highly suggest a MSD box. They aren't that expensive and it could save hours of trying to diagnose problems with the EFI system.
    ceas350 and Harlockssx like this.
  2. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    Weekend progress: Got a bunch of work done over the weekend. So far I have my EFI installed onto the engine. Will be reworking the cable bracket/return spring mount. Too much tension and some slack in the cable. Ran the numbers on the current alternator. It is a 63 amp HD unit. I did pick up another 80 amp model, only to find out that it is wrong (non-10SI case) so I guess we start with what we have on hand. Laid out the wiring and made some of the connections. Will be working on that for the rest of the week.

    I then ran the fuel line and wire, mounted to the frame with plastic clamps. This is where I hit my first issue. When I got to the rear of the car I was unable to route the line further than the rear control arms. Hitting the hot parts and moving parts. So, how are others doing this routing? Wondering if I should drill hole in the frame cross member and add a grommet to pass everything through. Or if there is a different routing path I should use? I can't pass over the frame. I also need a good mounting point for the fuel pump. I could go inside the frame rail, but that seems rather far from the fuel tank. Need some input on this.

    Last thing was setting up the new fuel tank for install. Have it ready to go in, just need to get the other issues figured out!

  3. BillA

    BillA Well-Known Member

    I followed the original steel fuel line from the tank forward. In my case I used the factory line as a return and ran EFI rated hose as a feed running parallel to the factory hard line. Keep it tucked away the exhaust and control arms with clamps or zip ties if necessary.
  4. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    Hey Bill, I'm running down the pass side frame rail. Same as a Chevelle. To go down the other side would have the line looping around the EFI and under the brake booster. Where did you put the fuel pump?
  5. BillA

    BillA Well-Known Member

    I'm using an Aeromotive in tank pump. The fuel lines run along the frame on the drivers side then up the firewall behind the brake booster and then along the inner fender. The filter is on top of the inner fender. I then route the feed line from the filter 90 degrees to the throttle body. The return follows the same path going into a regulator on the inner fender then back to the tank.
  6. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    Weekend progress: We got the majority of the install completed! I finally found a routing for the fuel line over the frame & between the body. No kinks or rubs (Think Chevelle routing). Still want to add in 1 more cushion clamp to keep the route away from the LCA on the passenger side.

    Under hood wiring and plumbing is all but done and I was able to weld in the O2 sensor (may still have to get the muffler shop to look at the weld job for leaks). All of the wiring was done by an electrician, everything was soldered and heat shrunk.

    Still have 2 things left:
    1. WHAT IS THE PURPLE WIRE FOR????? Driving both of us nuts. My thought is that the wire is to run the nitrous (don't have it) so this should be rolled up and hidden.

    2. Need to build fan relay. I have a 16" electric fan to replace the direct driven WP Fan. According to the directions, the fan needs to be on a relay. Need to pick up a relay still. Since this is a single fan system, it should be driven from the FAN 1 wire. I believe that the FAN 2 wire would not used and should be hidden away under heat shrink to avoid any grounding issues. Let me know if this is correct.

    Still TO DO: need to build a mounting plate for the fuel pump. Found the mounting position Above the rear end, this will require that the post filter gets moved forward on the frame. I'll be mounting it in the C Channel of the frame near the door opening/rear passenger window area. Also, should the fuel pump trigger wire (heavy orange) be run inside of the car in the body wire channel, under the carpet? Right now it is run along the fuel line and zip tied in place.

    I also need to refoam the air cleaner and weather strip the trunk opening (known exhaust leak). I will move the tailpipe mounting on the passenger side to the correct place on the frame (that just bugs me that the pipes are hanging funky). Should also block off the stock fuel line at both ends.

  7. Harlockssx

    Harlockssx Brother Graw Mad

    If you're still intent on running the 63A alternator, you're going to have a bad time using an electric fan as your primary cooling fan in addition to running your system. Few off the shelf single electric fans are truly able to cool down a warmed over street driven BBB, especially if you run AC. A mechanical fan with shroud greatly outflows them. If it were me, I'd run twin electric fans in a shroud instead of one, and at least a 100A alternator. Good luck!
  8. Swagon

    Swagon Well-Known Member

    What im using on my car is a alternator from a 95 roadmaster, look up one wire alt swap from mad electrical. and im also using dual fans from like a 90's Taurus, fit the stock radiator perfectly.
    Harlockssx likes this.
  9. BillA

    BillA Well-Known Member

    I would seriously consider upgrading that alternator. Also, make sure you use a fuse between the battery and fuel pump and fan relays. I prefer the weatherproof fuse holders that use the new style blade fuses. Use good relays too and make sure they are matched(at a minimum) to the current draw of the item you are powering. Keep a few spare fuses in the glove box too.

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