I'm going to order some wilwood brakes for the front of my car (think I have out lived the old drums :eek2: ) any one use these on your cars?
I have the street version. Rick Martinez (9SecStage1) has the race ones on his. I am happy with mine and he was with his last I knew.
I have the HD street versions on the front and rear of my 71 GS, weighs 3880lbs. with driver, so far stops every pass! have been happy with them. Bruce
Rod has them on the Hawk and they work great. The guys at Wilwood are easy to deal with too if you run into any problems.
Just got to kit in today ...What brake lines did you go with or did you just get a custom set made up?
I got the brake lines as part of the kit from hotrodsusa.com . They were braided hose lines and worked nicely. I think Summit and Jegs carry the lines as well.
The part # is 140-2285-b It seem like a nice set-up light weight the box with all the parts for both side is only 33 lbs.I have drums right know i guess they bolt right up going to be a couple week till I get to install them. For a master cylinder I got one for a 69 vette w/manual disc's just got to call around for the lines
That's one of the kits I've been looking at. I'm looking at the 140-7675 kit also, but it will limit my rim choices. I called Wilwood and the tech guy said the slightly larger rotor in the 7675 kit would be more brake, but it would be only a little better than the 2285 kit. decisions, decisions!
I just installed the 140-7675 front brakes on my wagon. I decided to go with the larger rotors (12.19") due to the weight of the car (~4100#). It was one of the easiest kits to install. Just had to completely disassemble the current setup so you're left with a bare spindle. Drill and tap the upper spindle hole for 5/8" vs. 1/2" stock. Bolt up the caliper bracket, assemble the rotor/adapter/hub, pack the bearings and install, then bolt on the caliper and you're done. I did both sides in one evening - very easy. Alan, I was very concerned with caliper to wheel clearance but these fit with no problem. I'm running a 15x4" Weld Prostar and I had roughly 3/8"-1/2" clearance between the caliper and the inside of the rim. If I remember correctly from the Wilwood diagram, from the center of the rotor to the furthest part of the caliper is ~7.125" - just enough room for 15" wheels. I can post some pics if you're interested. Also, I weighed the disc setup vs. the stock 9.5" drums. The entire drum assemblies (drum, backing plates, brakes, hardware, etc.) weighed ~33 # each while the disc setup (rotors, calipers, etc.) weighed ~20 # each. That's an easy 26 # of unsprung weight off the front of the car with the added benefit of much improved braking. Now if only the rears would come! I've been waiting long enough! Paul
Coolness! I knew I was dragging my feet for a reason! :laugh: (not that I normally drag my feet, or anything) ou:
Paul Do you have a part Number or anything on the brake lines you used also what master cylinder did you use i was going to try one from a 69 corvette with manual disc's
You might want to contact Master Power Brakes at www.mpbrakes.com. They manufacturer brand new master cylinders, calipers, etc for the street machine and street rod crowd. Just tell them your caliper piston size, car weight, useage, etc., and they can recommend a MC bore size. I have one of their MC's and it's a really nice piece. They have a real deep hole for the pushrod, and a large diameter pushrod, so the rod CANNOT fall out (i.e. Bobb Makley). I'm pretty sure they also sell or make steel braided brake hoses. Hope this helps. Have fun.
I haven't gotten a master cylinder yet although I was thinking of going with the Corvette one as well. Or aftermarket like one from Master Power. I'm going to need the rod as well (going from power to manual) so I'd like to be able to get everything I need from one place. I'm also trying to figure out the combination valve/proportioning valve/distribution block issue. I'm trying to determine what I actually need. The car will have 4 wheel discs instead of the drums all around so I'm thinking I'll just get a disc/disc master cylinder and a disc/disc combination valve like what Master Power offers and be done with it. Any other suggestions? As for the lines, I put all new stainless hard lines from Inline Tube and I've got braided lines for the front calipers and connections at the rear calipers and the rearend to frame connection. These are all -3 lines. Can anyone tell me why you need a flexible line from the rearend axle tube hard line to the rear caliper? This would be a short (4-6") piece at the outboard end of the axle to connect the hard line to the caliper. I could see doing that if the caliper was a floating-type design. But these calipers bolt right to the bracket which bolts right to the rearend housing. The caliper body does not move with respect to the rearend. Why do I need these? I checked a buddy's stock '84 SVO Mustang and it too has short flexible lines from the rearend hard line to the caliper. Paul
I spoke with one of the tech guys at Wilwood and he said to remove all the factory stuff and use the master cylinder (Wilwood #260-8555, I believe) and an adjustable proportioning valve in the line to the rear. Unless I find out something different this is the way I'm headed.
You can also use this C4 corvette brake kit that bolts up to your stock drum brake spindles. The kit includes 2 aluminuim caliper mounting brackets, 2 C4 2 piston calipers, 2 13" brembo rotors, and braided brake hoses for $700 plus shipping. I run the C5 version on my car and they stop unbelievable. If you want to use this setup or have questions about it you can give me a call at 216-481-5219 9am-6pm est. mon-fri or email at buizila@yahoo.com
My guess is so you can service the pads without undoing the hard-lines. Mike, that sounds like a very slick setup!
Paul the reason why you need a flex hose isn't because of the flexiblity on the rear,but for the banjo bolt and the way the caliper accepts the brake line. A hard line won't work. I hope this helps you on understanding a little better. Mike
