Hello fellow Buick nuts, I asked this about a year ago but did not get alot of responce back then, so I will try again. I am wondering if anyone out there is or has run the Poston 110 cam? I have a used one I got a while ago I wanted to try in my car but after buying it I never heard anything good about it. The person I got it from said it didn't run very good in his car, he might not have had enough converter or gears to run it, Its been so long I don't remember the whole story. I bought it from the discription in the Poston catalog but some have said it doesn't act at all like the discription. I wonder if it would be worth the work to pull my tried and true [and older than dirt lol] 105A cam and try the 110. I have the good valve train parts and a 3800 stall [guessing] 10" converter and 4.10 gears. I don't know if my just under 10to1 compression will be enough for the cam to work. It has .542in .542ex lift, ex duration of 272 and in duration of 252 at .050. Poston says it has a 800 rpm idle and pulls hard from 2800 to 6200 and will work with less gear and converter than the 105A, I can't find my 105A card at the moment But I think it is about .523 lift and 240 in duration and 248 ex duration. The 110 cam has 110 * lobe sepration angle and the 105A is 105* angle. I don't see how a cam with this much duration over my current cam can idle at 800 and my old one at 1100 and also work with less gear and converter also. I guess the only way I will find out is to switch cams and see for myself, But if others say it is no good I won't go through all the work and probably ending up with my old cam back in but it also makes me wonder if I am leaving some horse power laying on a shelf by not trying it. I have the thing so it would not cost much to try it just some work. Sorry to get so long. Any advice would be helpfull to me. :3gears: :Comp: Tom
With 42 deg of overlap at 0.050" there's no way in hell this will idle at 800 rpm. Also 10:1 is not enough SCR, check your DCR.
I got the cam mostly from the discription in the catalog and when I got it [used] I was looking at the card and thought to myself no way this thing can be so tame for the size. Book also says you can run stock rockers on it, uummm OK? I wonder if this cam was supost to be a respoce to the cam the GSCA had, " the 10 sec street,strip cam". It was also discribed the same way but was also a huge cam. It might be a good power cam but I don't see a 2800 converter and 3.55 gears being big enough for it to run right. That is what Poston says it will work with. I think a long time ago that Jim Burek knew about alot of the stuff Poston sold but I understand they are not to close anymore, Maybe Jim B has a little background on this cam if he is willing to get involved with this post. Tom
The timing card says the intake closes at 82 deg ABDC. Putting the numbers into the DCR calculator, you would need around 12:1 SCR to get an acceptable 8.1 DCR . With only 10.5:1 SCR you will end up with a weaker 7.1 DCR, too low IMO, you would be leaving some hp on the table.
Maybe if I ever build another motor with more compression and good heads maybe it would be a cam to try for the heck of it. I guess its the only way to find out if its any good. Tom
Yes, I ran the Poston 110 cam in blue printed Stage I motor. Had 10:25 compression pistons w/deck heigth .10. Milled .15 off the heads w/compression of 200lbs. Roller rockers w/1.60 ratio. Idle was best @ 1000 rpms plus 9 1/2 inches of vaccum and no power brakes. Best E.T. 11.99 to 12:00s @ 114 MPH / Best 60ft times 1:77 Replaced w/Postons 113A Idle was great 850RPM. Vaccum 13+ inches (I finally had good brakes). 60 foot times 1.66 / best ET 11:98 @ 113 MPH My suggestion is if you want a driveability and vaccum for power brakes get the Postons 113A you will enjoy the result of having a good ET and a driveable vehicle. If you want an earth shattering idle and your car isn't fassst anyway, get the 110. Larry Eaton
110 cam a friend of mine that i race with every weekend runs the 110 cam. he has his 455 stuffed into an 89 regal (former front wheeler) and he runs 11.53's at 112.67 his best short time is 1.57 here is a little about his setup 1970 455 stage 1 Block milled 10.0 steel shim head gaskets 10.5:1 comp poston headers holley 830 chokeless 3500 stall TH400 9 inch packing 4.11's He loves this cam!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Dustin
Ive been running the cam 4 years now. Mostly on the street the last 2. It idles at 1000 rpm the best ive done with it is 12:31et with a 1.68 60ft. My set up is 10.25:1 piston the block is decked.010 and the heads are cut .020. the heads are stock 72 and i am running the factory rockers. I have a 3500 stall and 350 turbo trans with 3.90 gears, And an 850 holley. Street wise i have never had a problem and the mean idle draws alot of attention, performance wise im sure i could do better with a different cam and definitely some good heads. There are no power brakes with this cam. Wether or not it is better than anything else I cant say because i havent tried anything else yet.
Are you guys saying that you're running low 12's with this cam without head work? that doesn't seem too bad to me. o No:
I can't help it! I have to say it! 252/272 at .050 would work great with a little nitrous. Especially with your low 10.0 comp :Brow: I would give the cam a try. With your 4.10 gears and 3800 stall it should respond well to the 110 LC. The cam will like a large carb like a 950 HP or a 850 with a 1" spacer on a single plane intake. Ported heads? Exhaust size? Cars Weight w/driver? Current ET/mph? You could put the cam in an extra 2 degrees advanced to help make up for the compression being a little on the low side. You don't need to build another motor. Just run the 110 with a little juice. Its cheeper and alot easier and would be faster and you could still run pump gas even with the spray. :TU:
Well I allready have a ported TA intake with a very old 1050 holley, KB 2" "pulse" headers, home ported 1970 heads with stage1 stuff, KB rollers, good pushrods, TA 1125 springs. The car is a full weight non air car so I am guessing 3700-3800 with me in it. It has the sealed power forged "1970" pistons at real close to .000 deck, stock rods with ARP bolts, ARP main studs, BHJ balancer, it is .030 over with no filler around cylinders. My compression is so low because I took to much out of chambers when I unshrouded and smoothed them I wanted about 10.2-10.4 measured compression but ended up with 9.7. With the 105A the best run so far has been a 11:31 at 115.5 mph, 1.48 60 foot, 7:10 at 94.5 I think it was at 1/8th mile. The car pulls great to about half track and then is kind weak the rest of the way, I might be wrong but with 1/8mile numbers and 60 ft like it has been I think it should pull more than 115 mph. I am thinking it should be about 117-118 mph. Maybe my home ported heads are not very good, I have never had them flowed to see how bad they are. After seeing what others are running with the 110 cam my old 105A don't seem to do to bad for itself, and the 105A will make heads turn going down main street also, has a nasty idle to. :grin: Tom
Toss Up...... The 110 should give you a better top end charge. With the 105 lobe centers it helps with cylindrer pressure and cylinder scavaging in the mid range rpms but will die out fast up top. The 110 has a long exhaust duration which helps on lower compression engines at rpm and the 110 LC will let it pull in the high rpms along with the added duration. With the cam performance, it will depend on how it responds to the rest of your combintion. It will like your 4.10 gears better than the 105. You will still get a nasty idle out of it. I had a 255/265 108 LC with 10.0 comp 3.73's, 2004r trans, and every time I went smaller on the cam it slowed down. I was told my cam was too big but I kept slowing down with smaller cams. I would have went bigger but I lost all the center cam bearings from a bad cam. I had to beat it out with a hammer. When I took the motor out, I built what I have now. I fix my old motor and put a better set of ported iron heads, upped the comp to 10.25 and put in a 230/244 112 LC cam and went from a 850 to 950 Holley. It went 11.70 at 114 compaired to 11.40-50's at 117. I would put the cam in on a 104 and no less than 106 intake centerline to help with cylinder pressure if you decide to give it a shot. Speaking of "shot", I would definitely juice it into the 10's if I was thumping around town with it running that 110 cam. :blast: :TU:
Thanks for everyones input, Sounds like maybe I should give it try. I am in the middle of installing a roll bar which got put on hold because of wedding in family and a motorhome we got that needed motor fixed but I hope to get back to car this week. I also want/need to get a better drive shaft built for it before that breaks. If I could keep my bottom end about the same and gain top end that would be just what I am looking for. Maybe that cam would work real good with my heads, I have a feeling if I had them flowed the exhaust side would be the weak side anyway. The 110 might be just what the DR ordered. :grin: Also some low 11:20s would be cool.:3gears:
What would be good lifters to use with this cam? I have just rebuilder clevite Chevy lifters in it now and I am begining to wonder if I have lifter pump up problems, the motor pops out the exhaust alot and is real dead in high gear. I got the 110 cam used but hardly run and a set of poston hi rev lifters. My block is cut alot so standard buick lifters are to long now thats why I went to chevy lifters so I could keep my moly stock length pushrods. I got the chevy lifters from the engine shop I used to work at real cheap so I went that way instead of shorter pushrods. Tom
