There are a lot of great how to guides on this site and on the web, showing screen shots of most items but I'm not finding anything on drum removal. Being a visual person myself... does anyone know of a video or screen shots of someone that has removed a drum (front) from a 71 skylark. I pulled the tire, tapped on the drum with a hammer and nothing. I've read about inserting a screw driver into a slot and some other things but again...seeing it would sure be nice.
You should squirt all of the studs with some penetrating oil first. Tapping it with a hammer isn't going to do the job. I had to really hit the rears on our '72. Once it budges lightly tap the back of it and it will come off. Most of the time you can just pull it off after you get it loose. Sorry I don't have a video, hope this helps a little. Louie
Steve, I'm another "Old School" Skylark owner with 4-wheel drum brakes. Sorry, I don't have any photos, but there really isn't anything to take a picture of when removing the brake drum (front or rear). I can offer a couple ideas on what might be causing you problems. The "screwdriver in the slot" you refer to has to do with the brake shoe adjustment. The "slot" is around on the backside of the brake backing plate - it might have a rubber plug in it if your car hasn't "been messed with" too much. To adjust the shoes, you remove the plug (if present) and stick a fairly large flat-blade screwdriver into the hole. When properly positioned, the tip of the blade engages a little wheel that looks kinda like a chain sprocket on a bicycle. Moving the little wheel one direction "expands" the brake shoes inside the drum - moving the wheel the other way has the opposite effect. You can see the little adjuster wheel in the generic brake diagram below: Now, if the brake shoes are too tight, it can make it difficult to remove the drum. The simple way to check this is to just rotate the drum by hand. If the drum rotates easily and spins freely in both directions, then the shoes are probably not "too tight", and you don't have to mess with the adjuster. A more likely problem is that the drum is just "stuck". Over time, the combination of moisture, rust, dirt and brake shoe dust can form pretty tight bond between the brake drum and the wheel hub behind it. You have the right idea about "tapping" on the drum to free it up, but I would suggest a rubber mallet rather than a hammer. The drum is made of cast iron and is pretty sturdy, but it is possible to damage it if you get too rough. Try the "penetrating oil on the wheel studs" idea in the post above...give it a few minutes to work. Then tap vigorously all the way around the edges of the drum with the rubber mallet. Finally, grab the drum with your hands and try to "rock" it in a side-to-side motion. This will usually be enough to "break it loose" and allow you to pull it off. If not, go through the steps again. Depending on how long it's been since it was last removed, it might take a little work on your part, but it should eventually come free. Good luck on your project.
You did take the wheel bearing nut off, didn't you? Not all front drums are 2 piece. Sorry, don't mean to offend, just want to eliminate the obvious.
X2. If you separated the hub and drum, you just caused yourself a lot of trouble. If you remove the hub nut, they aren't that hard to get off.
I had a thought... If its been a long time since these drums have been off there may be a lip around the out side edge of the drum from brake wear. Ive seen some over an 1/8 thick. If thats the case he will need to loosen the adjuster a lot and maybe tap the drum to get the shoes to relax then turn the drums before reinstalling over fresh shoes.
sorry to high jack, but since board member Briz is here as well: yesterday evening I tried to remove a front drum/hub (aluminium) of my 68 Wildcat to change the bearings. Removed the cotter pin and castle nut: the drum would come off only 1/4" and then it stucked, probably against the shoes. Is there this little knock-off plate on the backing plate (which I know 71 and up big Buick has them in the rear) to get access to the star wheel? (it was too dark to continue working on it: an answer here would save me quite some time) Thanks
Should only be sealed with a rubber plug. The plug may not even be there. Mine are center at the bottom of the backing plate.
after a few turns of the star wheel the drum came off easily..new bearings and shoes are installed :TU:
I am the same way,It is easier for me to see it being done then reading on how things are done. I have a reading problem that I just learned about. After 51 years I finally learned why it was so hard for me too learn! I am trying to over come it but seeing it is still better for me. Techman-10
Yeppers time to close this thread. I was able to remove the front drums. (Sucks being a rookie sometimes) After I poped the cap off and removed the cotter pin... removed the bolt... yeah the drum pratically fell off in my hand. Two hours later the brakes were done. Thanks everyone.
Made photos during the process to show for you here.. but you're OK now. :TU: Maybe will upload them here later for future searches on the board by others.
