Bylons79, when you say your primaries stay open, are you talking about the throttle plate or airhorn butterflies?
I'm guessing here...but I'm going to say throttle plate...the one in the front...whenyou give it a little gas it should open up and when you close it all the way it cuts out...well mine stays open (i wish i knew the technically correct terms) Ben
Ben, the butterflies are the metal plate(s) that open and shut on the airhorn (top part of carb). Throttle plates are on the bottom silverish part of the carb. From description, I'd say throttle plates.. Next question(s): Do you have a throttle return spring installed? What's it idle at in rpm's? Also, how do you know it stays open? The plates should be open 'some' for it to idle, that adjustment is done via the screw thats next to the throttle arm. I try to KISS (keep it simple stupid)
Excellent! :TU: Re: air horn. I made sure mine was adjusted so the top (air valve) flaps had a reasonable amount of spring to them but not too tight. Adjust it 1/8 of a turn at a time. If you experience a bog then keep going to make sure that it gets worse. That way you know you're on the right track. Now back off until it doesn't bog and go a small way further and it should be set ok. Make sure that you don't let go of the screwdriver or the spring will unwind and you do not want that to happen. Leaks and float adjustments I leave to the professionals. I like playing with the 'user servicable parts' only like the hangers, secondary rods and air valve etc. And make sure you keep that timing under control. Funny thing, you leave a 20 foot mark and I'm smiling on the other side of the planet. :grin: Internet is cool. No? Bill
Bill, Internet = Way Cool! :Comp: :TU: I'm ajusting the air valve spring 1/2 turns at a time until the bog either starts going away or bogs more. Haven't hit either one yet.. ou: Trying to hold on to a small enough screwdriver, an even smaller allen wrench on hot engine parts ain't easy.. Specially trying to get the allen wrench into the screw.. :spank: User servicable parts, hmmm.. What are those again? :laugh: I just like tearing stuff apart I guess.. Enjoyed it since I was 2 I think.. heh-heh Well, I'm off to piss off the neighborhood some more.. :gt: :spank: :gt: I can't wait to get it setup just right.. There's this old bitty who lives on a corner that I've been waiting to light it up infront of.. :Brow: :laugh: Thanks Bill!
Leave the Grannies alone you big meany. Try backing the air valve out until it flops open. Tighten it until it just closes and try 1/2 a turn from that point. Stock is about 7/8 turn from zero resisitance and we want a little bit less than stock. Of course with out the carb off and upside down we can't see the point of zero resistance so we have to guess. Keep working at it. My Quad has no bogging what so ever and pulls strongly and without hesitation from any point. Your's will too. BTW I totally removed my choke and all it's assembly. Some people say that the holes in the sides where the shaft goes through create turbulence when the shaft is removed. I don't know about that so I can't comment but that's what some people say. Here's a pic of the carb that's on my car at the moment in case you haven't been to BuickStreet yet (tsk tsk). http://www.buickstreet.com/buickstreettech-carterqjet.html Bill.S
Well Bill, Tonight I did it again... I think I broke the spring... The secondaries are stuck open and I just was able to get it parked on the street. (house being painted so no driveway) Guess I'll be able to find zero tension with the carb apart again.. ugh... I'll start at 1/2 turn and work from there in 1/8 increments this time. As to the "Grannies I should leave alone".. It's one old hag who had speed bumps put on our streets where there was already a friggen stop sign! Makes me wanna steal a M1 Tank and run in into her place.. And she constantly bitches about 'everything'... I wanna give 'er something to really bitch about.. :blast: I'd be apt to say the holes do create turbulence, but hey, if it works... I always visit yer site.. And one day when she's all purdied up I'll take some photos for ya. I'm off to bed, got one lonnggg day ahead...
Dear me. Broken spring! I expect you will be able to find a spare somewhere. But this time... That's why you could get any more adjustment obviously. And why you didn't see any improvement. Your secondary air valve was probably not opening because the spring was 'a bit' too tight The good news is that you now know why. Persisit. It's worth it. Good night. Bill S.
I have an extra if it is indeed broken... Alas, I know why it broke, but why'd it have to... Why I say, Why! I'll persist alright, until one of us (the car or me) screams "No Mas!".. :grin: G'night? It's afternoon there isn't it? hehe I know I know.. You meant me.. hehe G'night..
Well ladies -n gents, the beast runs again.. I had a 3rd airhorn assembly that was complete I stole the spring from.. ;-) Best part is it has better action then the original one. Spent all night (till 4am) putting it back together and installed today. I thought since I was redoing it again I'd go completely stock on it. 73 jets, 44b rods, AS sec rods, 1/2 spring preload and 3/8 float height. Test drove 'er and the secondaries open up better but still a lil bog I will hopefully whip in the butt tonight. Primaries are nice with the 73jets vs the 71 (and even worse 69's). I'll probably have some 'new' jets to sell once I findout if the 73's work the best if anyones interested. One thing that is still present is fuel seeping from the airhorn to bowl gasket right in front almost all the way across.. Anyone have some thoughts? Das all for now as it's still to warm to be outside with non-functional A/C.. Thanks !!
For an 800 on a 350, I would try 73 main jets with 43 or 44 rods. A good starting point for the rods is mainjet size minus 30. Since you have the 44 rods go with 73 jets and give it a try. The CK sec rods someone else recommended would also be a good starting point. If you have a stock cam, the stock power valve spring is probably ok. With low vacuum you may need a weaker spring. Hope this helps.
Bob, Thanks for the suggestions! I'm running 73 jets, 44B rods with an edelbrock 8Hg powerpiston spring. Secondary side is a B hanger and I'm playin with rods.. AS was almost there, went to CP and was worse off, last night tried BS and nogo there either.. If I have a set of CK I'll try them. I know I have CP and CC, as well as DD, DU, AS, and BS. Might have CK, will check in a bit. Airvalve is at 1/2 turn from zero at the moment also. I can only do test-n-tune late at night as there's to much traffic around here during the day..
Hi Larry. Could this be the right setup for my engine/carb combination ? Please see link: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=233740&highlight=7042940
"" John Osborne set up my 800. It has 76 jets, 46B primary rods, and BG secondary rods. It runs flawlessly, with clean transition from primary to secondary, and no bog."" <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
I would say no. My engine has headers. The carburetor is a bit on the rich side I would say. It runs great for me, but I think I could get better gas mileage with leaner jetting. I think you should stick with the stock jetting for now.
Over the years I've built many Q Jets and used them on stock drivers, street/strip cars and turbocharged tow vehicles. I've compiled a list of stock metering rod/jet combo's as I took them apart, mostly from the late 60's through the mid 80's. As far as tuning, there are a lot of things to consider and many adjustments and changes that can be made, to much to get into here. If any of the info I've compiled could be helpful, you can PM me off list. Sounds like you are making headway and learning and that's what it's all about. As far as I'm concerned, the Q Jet is the best carb out there.
