What bottom end and block work should be done for a set of TA heads taking notes now rather than after
Drilling and tapping for the extra head studs isn't mandatory but sure does help in the "peace of mind" category. Especially if leaning more towards wild as far as compression goes.
Oil mods will be done for sure not sure if heads have extra holes for more studs and will be using those instead of bolts probly run 10 to1 compression custom pistons for zero deck height and Pontiac rods longer stroke
No need to use Pontiac rods anymore, they make BBB specific rods now and for the different strokers combos as well.
I agree with Ethan at 10:1, bi boost dont worry about the extra studs, they can be tricky to get in straight. Mine was done by mike at AMP and even with a rig a couple still trailed off enough I had to go in and work hokes open to get studs in and out
I don’t have the extra bolts at 10.54:1. Everything I have read about them says don’t bother at that compression.
Would it be best to stroke the new build or leave it alone without off set grinding and girdle if I can make it run in the low 12 second range on the mountain I would be happy my Iron head stage 1 runs 13.0 with only being board out and a poston 118 cam and a stall converter
If I am into prepping a block and I know the Stage-2 heads I’m using have stud provisions then I would be foolish not to drill and tap the block at that time, .... no matter what the estimated compression was to be. If at anytime I would decide a power adder that boosts compression was to be installed, .... the extra studs would be useful. If anyone has ever tried drilling and tapping those holes with the short block in the car (I have once), ...... they would wish that would have been done on a stand. Also if at any point I decided to change out the heads and they had smaller chambers (raising compression) then I would be good to go without touching the block. If I were to be selling a block with the stud holes, then that’s just one more benefit. As far as success rate goes, ... I’ve easily drilled and tapped nearly a dozen blocks with the fixtures I rented from TA Performance without any complications in fitment. At the end of the day, that’s just my view. Larry
Here's my experience.. For Stage 1 SE and TE heads, the extra bolts are not required, and they dramatically interfere with several exhaust bolt holes, requiring very short studs in those holes. I drilled one motor with Stage 1 TE heads, and regretted it. The stage 1 head casting is stable enough on the exhaust side, to seal effectively. Stage 2 heads of any flavor get all the bolts... The lack of casting on the exhaust side, compromises the clamping of the head to the block, especially at that lower center water jacket hole. This was a problem with the OE Iron version of the Stage 2 head also. I have seen guys build crazy compression stuff and not use that lower set of studs... I have not used them myself a number of times. And if everything is perfect with the engine, the install, and the world, the exhaust side of the head will seal the coolant. But just one thing is not optimum, and you will have a leak. I put them in every Stage 2 engine, my reputation depends on the fact that I build motors that don't leak. So everything I can do to prevent leaks, will happen. Now, as to installing the studs in the block, every machinist, and every dude with a mill in his garage, thinks he can put them in without the drill and the tap jigs from TA. Most of them can locate the holes correctly. What they can't do is keep the drill bit from walking as you drill down and hit the inside wall of the block. It's hard enough to do with the drill jig, nearly impossible without it. With the jig, use a sharp 5/16 drill bit (I buy a new one every time I do this job) and use light pressure, to keep the hole straight. The very first one I did, I got one going in crooked.. because I was not patient. Since then, I have done dozens of them, and the heads just drop right on the studs. I believe TA rents the jigs, so you don't have to buy them. Use the jigs to put the extra bolt holes in, if you have Stage 2 heads, there is no downside, just a little liquid Teflon sealer will seal those studs right up, no issue. Leaking studs are typically the result of crooked installs. Most of the head gaskets seal all the way around the stud, so if everything is straight and square, the head gasket will prevent leaks at the deck, and the thread sealer stops coolant from wicking up the stud. JW
I have not unpacked them yet I think they are later made stage 2 SE heads and for block choice would a 69 430 work or look for a later 75-76 blue block or have someone set up the bottom end done and have it shipped and install the top end only one machine shop in Denver I know of has a TP but for cost effective price what would be the best option I have assembled some bottom ends but they are nothing special over factory and are still running
