Not sure where to put this but this category might work. Do aluminum driveshafts justify their cost over stock driveshafts? Do most performance oriented restorers switch to aluminum driveshafts? Thanks
i'd Think so...you know you may go with a carbon fiber driveshaft too. even less rotating mass = faster rev/accelleration, and its more safe....but ALOT more cash then AL
They are really nice. Light, strong and balanced. The only way to go if you got an extra $400. However, probably not worth it on a mild street set up.
It will be for a restoration car not a high performance deal. Big valve motor, some internal upgrades but I was thinking it would be worth $400 or so, maybe "slightly" better gas mileage then when you need to pass.... a little extra push.
Waste of money in a muscle car. Aluminum shafts. ASK your local drive line shop how often they have to repair the u-joint yoke ends on a ALum shaft... They oblong out under heavy loads. TRUCKS and vans towing and carrying heavy loads. IF you like maintenance all the time them go ahead. Steel is the way to go for trouble free operation and strength in longevity. Plan and simple. YOU are not going to NOTICE the difference in ET or feel. You will notice a bigger difference in the cam, torque converte,r gears, ignition etc. Spend your money there first. BUT it is your car/ truck so it is ok to do what you want. This is MY opinion. Take care, jim:beer
Jim You have a point there. If it ain't broke don't fix it. I will wait then and continue doing my build/restoration then decide later. When I first heard about aluminum driveshafts, it was about year 2000 and I was doing 442 Oldsmobiles and was at a shop that made aluminum driveshafts. They explained that lighter weight meant more power to the rear wheels. Now, my car will be essentially stock as I have given up looking for a posi. I am leaning toward restoring it stock with mild internal "corrections" to the 455. Thanks for your input.
Usually aluminum is a good upgrade if you're having a custom shaft made. It's not much more expensive and you'll save on shipping since it's lighter. If you're going to use it on a street car and it's a generic standard size than you may as well stick with painted or powdercoated steel. Aluminum does seem to be easier to hold a balance though.
I was leaning toward aluminum since I have to have one made anyways (stupid long-tailshaft th400... ) and it really wasnt much more money. I wouldnt fool with it if I had a steel one that fit, but its your ride so take into account all the opinions, but go with what gives you warm fuzzys:TU:
You do not need to make a shaft just have one shortened- you can take ANY truck astro van impala 90 -96 camaro 1967-1990 etc and shorten the shaft to fit your needs way less on the money and they have to balance it anyway to weld the end back on too. MOST good size cities have some one in that area that can do this work... Google in your area I am sure you will find a shop. Jim We run a 10.90 car with a shortened stock GM 2.50 shaft diameter pulls the fronts etc. NOT cause we can not afford a better one BUT to prove a point... Quality workmanship leads to QUALITY products even from STOCK components. Good luck in your choice- Jim
Ill definitely look into that Jim. Dayton Clutch and Joint has a solid reptutation around here with racers so thats where I'll be headed. Thanks for the input!:beers2:
