Alternator

Discussion in 'Sparky's corner' started by GRIMM, Jan 5, 2006.

  1. GRIMM

    GRIMM Well-Known Member

    i am thinking i have to replace my alternator, tested my cables (unplugged) there is no current draw, the battery is a bosch and it dies almost overnight. my alternator looks pretty old, its corroding now, and i wouldnt mind the prettyness under the hood anyway, so a few questions:

    What amp alternator should i get?

    I was looking at a 95, and then a 110. is this too high?

    How do i test the voltage at my coil? after reading the other thread i thought i would check mine.

    And lastly, Poston sells some pulleys that are advertised to add 15-20 HP due to changing the ratio of the pulleys. Is this the case, or is this advertised just to sell them, and if it is true, is it 15 per pulley or for the set? and also does anyone make one for a power steering pump?
     
  2. 70 gsconvt

    70 gsconvt Silver Level contributor

    A question about your car. Is it still stock or have their been modifications? Also, does it still have the factory stereo or have you put in a modern system?

    I would bet your stock alternator was only 63 amps at most. If there have been no major modifications to the car, it's kind of a waste to get the bigger amp one. Also, more amps means a bigger load on the engine. So it would take away some HP.

    I run the pulleys on my engine. I don't know for sure how much they helped, but I don't think they hurt. But if do use them, you may want to get a higher amp alternator to compensate for the slower speed at which it will be spinning. But then you're causing more drag on the engine which will probably negate any gain from the pulleys. It's a vicious circle you're caught in.

    I would say just get an AC Delco Reman 63 amp and you should be just fine.
     
  3. GRIMM

    GRIMM Well-Known Member

    yes, i have added a new stereo, the original owner took out the stock one and replaced it, but took that one also.

    the stock stereo was causing a drain, but i fixed that.

    the entire cars wires have been redone.

    the only major change is the stereo, and the interior lights have been put on a toggle switch, fused of course.

    also, today, i saw the amp gauge that i installed flickering all over the place, and also, something i haven seen before, the amp gauge was fluctuating about 2 volts back and forth.

    car is completely stock, except a 72 small block carb, soon to be replaced, we will be modifying it highly.

    i guess i just wont go with the pulleys because they are $180 and still no power steering pump.

    Edit: Power steering pump pulley that is
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2006
  4. 65specialconver

    65specialconver kennedy-bell MIA

    alt

    if you want a hi amp unit,see my ad in the vendor section.can also do a stock 63amp.you can put the alt on a toggle also,for racing :3gears: ..jamie
     
  5. GRIMM

    GRIMM Well-Known Member

    ok ill check it out.

    But we probably will end up buying one (if they have one that is) from summit
     
  6. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    I have seen similar issues with an aftermarket radio and with the sector switch which is tied by a rod to the ignition key switch. When they get worn and arc internally the key can mechanically be in the off position but the sector switch is still electrically in the on or accessory position. Use a clamp on amp meter on the positive cable of the battery and have someone wiggle the key slighly to see if the current draw changes.
     
  7. GRIMM

    GRIMM Well-Known Member

    mine isnt actually hooked up to that anymore.

    The previous owner cut the hole out for the aftermarket radio, but the old volume hole is still there, so i got a rocker switch for the radio power.
     

Share This Page