When I had the GS running yesterday, I noticed the GEN light in the dash didn't go outo No: It would always stay on for a bit right after I started the car, but would go out. Yesterday it didn't. I idled the car for @35 mins, revving it a bit a few times. I don't have any gauge to tell if it's working or not, just the light. What can I check to see. Thanks Dan:3gears:
Your next step would be to determine which component is the problem. The method the factory techs used was to "full field" the alternator. Try connecting battery voltage to the "F" connection on the regulator connector, then gently rev the engine, noting the voltage on the battery leads. If the voltage rises above 15 volts, the regulator is likely the culprit. If the voltage does not rise, or is below 12 volts to begin with, either the battery or the connections are the problem. If below 12 volts to begin with, treat the battery as if it was discharged, and attempt to recharge it with a charger. If all connections are tight on the regulator connector, look for broken wires or corrosion. I can go into greater detail, but let's determine which direction to take first. Ray
I have a tester that will test the output of the alternator. I tried several different hook-ups, using the tester manual. I never got much over 30 amps out of the alternator. I'm assuming this is too low? Thanks, Dan:3gears:
After looking it over more, I found a wire on the regulator that was just barely on the post. I'm not sure what wire it was, I didn't climb in there to see. I just plugged it on good and firm. Started it up and the light went off right away. I'll let you know if it's still a problem. Thanks, Dan:3gears:
Depending on the rated output of your alternator, it is possible that your unit is fine. The 10DN alternator was rated as low as 35 amps, for non-A/C, non power window units. It sounds like you fixed the problem. Good show.
The reason I originally thought the alternator is because I do have AC and power windows. I thought the alternator would put out a little more power for that setup. It may have been replaced with a low amp one before though. Hmmmm. Thanks, Dan:3gears:
The alternator would only "put out" the amperage that is needed, that is the load on the battery at the time. If you didn't have all that stuff running, the load would be engine requirements only. The voltage would and should be, at the battery, roughly 13.8 to 14.5 volts. The alternator cannot put out more than is required above the reserve of the battery.
The tester, if properly used, "full fields" the alternator, creating a situation where the alternator puts out what it can. In normal service, the alternator will meet demand, but in testing, it puts out is maximum. The regulator controls the alternator, in "full field" it puts out what it can since the regulator is bypassed.
Also, ti is correct to assume that the alternator was replaced. The 37 amp seems a little low for the electrical load. I would have expected a 55 or 63 amp unit. Its having been replaced with a lower capacity unit is likely. If you look on the case near the two-wire connector, the rated capacity is stamped there unless a rebuilder sand-blasted it off.
