Alt amperage???

Discussion in 'Sparky's corner' started by Woodie, Mar 22, 2004.

  1. Woodie

    Woodie Well-Known Member

    When up grading to an internal regulated alt. What is sufficent and is there such a thing as too much??? Just installed a 6al and electronic dist from Dave.

    Michael
     
  2. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    Michael

    I think many would prefer the externally regulated unit for reliability and originality.
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Mike,
    Check out this link. The advantage to the internally regulated alternators is that they put out a larger percentage of their rated output in amps, at idle speed. I wouldn't go higher than the 94 amp alternator suggested in the article. If you are concerned with originality, stay with the external regulator as Jim stated.


    http://www.buickperformance.com/alternat.htm
     
  4. BadBrad

    BadBrad Got 4-speed?

    You really need extra current only if you have electric fan, a/c, bitchen stereo, power windows, and the tissue dispenser all running at the same time. Of all these, electric fans really pull the current - probably at least 10 amps per fan.
     
  5. Loyd

    Loyd Turbocharger junkie

    Jucing up the engine wiring harness

    The lights in our 70 GS always got dim in the course of sitting at a traffic light with the A/C and wipers going. Never liked this so had the original 56 AMP (at least that was stamped on the unit) alternator rewound to produce 83 amps at 3500 RPM, at a local shop.

    Then while changing out the resistor wire in the engine wiring harness, I also added a twelve gage wire directly from the alternator output to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid without a fusible link.

    This has really helped out the sluggish power windows, but maybe that was because the battery is now fully charged all the time.

    If I was to do it again, I would probably add another fusible link with a third 10 gage wire to break up the power feed splice in the middle of the harness. Pulling heavy current through a fusible link results in considerable voltage losses.

    Additional heavy load accessories should definitely be run through a separate 10 gage wire with a fusible link from the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. You could use relays triggered from the ignition circuit if key on power only is needed.

    I upgraded the wire for the ignition to 12 gage and spliced in a lead with an empty connector near the plug behind the fuze box, to supply extra loads such as relays, a 6AL box or controller for a lock up torque convertor.
     

Share This Page