....and Jim said.... I was tinking the exact same things in my post quoted above Do you think a console is going to fit over that bubble in the pan ?? Kinda looks like a blister that needs popping uzzled: Jim - is there any "play" in that blister, or is it a tight tolerance and thats what is needed ?? Do you think there is variance from 68-72 convert tunnels ?? from 68-72 converts to hardtops ?? Phil - definately will be interesting to hear what Randy has to say after looking at pictures
That looks good there Jim W. We are putting a gear vendors into a 68 Buick, We'll be doing the chassis here, then the customer will take the chassis back and set the body down. I think I'll print this picture for him so he can have an idea of what he will need to do. I agree, with interior installed, you would never know anything was done to the floor board. What would be nice would maybe be to make an insert like that so a guy could simply cut his tunnel and install that humped plate in it's place. Jim Burek
Phil, Right now, the engine and trans are sitting exactly as they would if it just had the factory short tailshaft on it. Mount is in the same holes on the frame, same trans mount for the standard deal was used, and the location on the GV extension housing is the same as on the 4" tailshaft. Both length and height. So, moving the crossmember down, to gain floor clearance, has to change the angle the engine is installed at, there is just no two ways about that. I don't consider this modification any different than "cutting" or "rolling wheel well lips for tire clearance, and I know lots of you guys do that without a second thought. On the chance that you ever wanted to go back to a stock restoration deal, this area of the floor would be a lot easier to fix than it would be to try and get the quarter panel lips right again. Alan.. no, it's still pretty dang tight in there, I won't know for absolutley sure that everything has enough clearance till I drive it. But I am 95% sure we have enough room. It certainly could be no smaller. And Jim, thanks, and yes, it would have been nice if there was a pre-formed piece I could have just dropped in and welded. Would have been a lot less work. Here is a pic from the back.
The rounded area where the actual GV unit meets the GV extension housing was the worst for clearance.
I am actually pretty excitied about this deal, and racing the snow season so I can get some testing time in with it. It will have my hidden, under carpet switch, for activating it. The car will look perfectly stock on the inside, we are working hard to hide all the goodies. When finished, the goal was to have what looked like a perfectly stock GS convert, that had a brake and wheel upgrade. The floor modification required was definately more than we had planned on doing, but in retrospect, it was not that big a deal. Just be aware that your going to have to remove the interior to do the GV install. The mechanical installation of the unit was a snap, I think the vast majority of you could get it on the trans in a couple hours. I used a 3.73 rear cog in this car when I build the rear, and can't wait to get it up to 70mph, and hit the OD switch.. JW
Not trying to stray but last night TLC re-ran the Rogan Cuda build up and it had a GV unit and a drive shaft with a 45 degree angle. Like the rear end was even with the valve covers. Course they didn't show much of the details.
Jim, I thought that Randy was talking about the crossmember being lowered because the bottom of the GV unit was lower. I didn't think that it meant tipping the engine/tranny upwards 2"!! I also have an X-pipe exhaust system. I guess I'd be chucking that in the trash and having to buy a new one also. Never thought about that. This sounds like it's quickly turning into a $3K job to me. Well, a metal worker I am not. Maybe this isn't going to work out for me. I emailed Randy with a pic of the tunnel work you had to do and a link to this thread. Let's see if he emails me back.
Well, I project my four-speed (or maybe 5-speed?) conversion to run me about 3500 dollars when I'm all done...for what? Having a pain in the butt while parking on a hill? i want to do it, so I am going to do it. Do you want the overdrive? thats' the only question you need to answer
Phil, if its any consolation, I too was hoping they had a slick new "Low-Profile" version that solved this whole mess I've been chewing on an O.D. path since I built this motor 6 years ago.....thats why I went with the TH400 2.75 1st gear and 3.08's in the rear
To bad they can design it to attach on the front of the rear end where there is plenty of room??? Instead of making the trans longer?
Hey guys Im an Olds man, some Olds guys on or site ROP have been talking about the GV. I figured Id tell you about mine. It wouldn't bolt right in my 72 Cutlass either. I remember Randy telling me that though :af: Before I bought my car someone butchered my trans tunnel to put in a Chevy 400 smallblock aand TH400 truck trans with some crappy floor shifter. I cut the whole mess out and welded in a bigger tunnel from a Chevy wagon. I had issues with pinion angle, with the new tunnel I was able to raise it up enough to get 2 degrees of tilt towards the back of the car. Here's a link to a little page I made with some pics of the install. http://www.72olds468.com/gearvendors.html Im happy with mine, but it isn't a bolt in for sure.
Am I having a bad day??? :rant: First this is not coming to fruition like I had thought it might without it being a major headache. Now to make matters worse, I lost my rear axle. My "bolt-in" axles rear axle had an oops. Luckily I was just pulling out of my drive. I hear a clunk and notice my driver's side rear wheel sticking out from the wheel well. NOT GOOD! It seems that if you tear apart the axle bearing, the entire assembly can still walk out of the housing. Luckily no damage other than the bearing/seal. It's just a pain to now have to redo it. Probably just redo both sides to be safe. I have not heard back from Randy from GV either regarding my email. Maybe I'll give him a call tomorrow. I am not going to cut my car up. Maybe I will just end up sticking that 2.73 posi rear in the car and doing 12.10's in the quarter :ball: .
I can understand not wanting to cut a GS. Everything I own is fair game for the blade EXCEPT my GS. With it the rule is pretty much "don't do anything you can't undo". I haven't thought about all the details but if you did lower the trans in the rear and use adjustable upper rear arms to set the rearend angle back right, you could store all the stock parts (trans crossmember, driveshaft, upper arms, etc) so it could be put back stock later if you wanted to. As Jim said, the fan would raise in the shroud (use a smaller fan?), and the shift linkage may be a problem. These things can be fixed, It just depends on how bad you want it and whether or not you are willing to cut the car. Too bad they don't have one that bolts to the rearend!
Phil.A bummer indeed.I am quite fed up with hi-way driving my GS with 3.42`s and have been eyeing the Gear Vendors for years now.You did some great homework for all of us 6 speed auto wannabees!!And as much as I respect and enjoy looking at the great Jim Weises work I question my talent in some of the areas of the install.Crossmember swap...control arms...I always assumed it was a small dimple in the floor pan job as far as some car mag articles I read.Man,this is a bit of a surprise to say the least.This is a great thread and keep the info coming!! Later,Tony.
