Well I put the 1050 on the car and it seemed to work well at idle but when i drove it a round the pits at part throtle it breaks up bad I tried to run it and it sounded like I was on a two-step in the burnout but it took of fine is there a way to adjust the air bleeds to lean it out at part throttle if so which ones do what there are three for each barrel ? I never got a good pass in anyway the rear brake hose plug up and wouldn't release the rear brakes that is how my luck as been this year
Which dominator is it? 9375 ? if its a 9375 you could go larger on the intermediate air bleeds this will lean it out off idle.
HP or the old stlye if its the HP holley shows that its a 3 circiut like the 9375 so you can go larger on the intermediate.I would get extra air bleeds and save the originals start out making small steps up small changes will make a noticable difference.The intermediate bleeds are the center bleeds on each venturi.
Probably a dumb question, but I just acquired an older #9375 and it only has 2 air bleeds. They are the brass press fit type, but it's only two. The smaller was 0.024" and according to the Holley book is the idle and the larger is 0.039" and is the main air bleed. The intermediate is just open - as if no brass bleed was ever installed. The Holley book shows this to be correct for an indermediate circuit carb. Is this correct? Ray
I was looking at changing them i have a hp 8896-1050cfm carb. Can someone give some in site witch bleed do what and has any picked up changing them i am at a 11.15 at 120 at 3610 at 5,800 feet and looking for those high 10s looking for anything to get there on the motor.
I used that 8896 Carb and it was rich for me down bottom too. With the both the power valves plugged you can try taking the intermediate air bleed out. On the main air bleed, on a high compreesion big block w/8896 try a .038" air bleed and as high as a .040". You may need to up the jet size by 2 all around if you up more than 3-4 from baseline. If its a little rich, it should improve your lower rpm power below 4500. All engine combos like there own settings so it just a suggestion. The 8896 has more differences than just the air bleed up top over the 9375 so if you try to copy the air bleeds off a 9375 wont mean it will be calibrated like a 9375 but doesn't mean it wont help. THere are more air bleeds in the metering block that respond to the air bleeds up top. Hope this helps.
For single 4 barrel use with a 9375 the high speed air bleeds need to be replace with smaller ones like the 8896 uses, if not the jetting make little difference on top end. An EGT is a must to get it right IMO. Taking the intermediate air bleeds out works nicely for driving to the track (I just do the primaries), cleans up the chugging....then just put them in at the track. Don't do it anymore cuz the last time I dropped one in the grass, never to be seen again! One more thing the 9375 needs bigger idle air bleeds otherwise the mix screws won't do much. Drilling the throttle plates helps too. Properly set up the Dominator can behave quite well..... on the street and track....but when not right can be a slobbering pig. Bruce
Thanks Rick the talk that we had on the phone was grate. You no your stuff on these Buicks to make them run on the gas I took the intermediates air bleed out all 4 what a differents they where 63s My high speeds are 40s should i go up or down. I jetted 82-82 for the gas flowing 6psi fuel I am going to run it Saturday hopping for some good numbers. I gave you my phone number we got cut short call me Saturday if you have time 720-217-7859 Jeff
Don't go any higher than 40. I feel past that you need to work your metering block internal air bleeds. See how you like it the way it is and go from there.
Well i got time to mess with the carb I had to jet the thing to 82 all four corners and power back and front to make the poping stop and i drove it on the street and feels good .I removed the air bleeds with 90 jet it was the same still poping. so if i jet 82 with both power valve I hoping that will be good for now. the air bleeds are .068 are in the middle and .040 on the high speed does that sound right?
Just a note: it's really not a good idea to run a rear power valve in a hard leaving car. You run jet extensions for the main jets, right? Where does the power valve get it's fuel? The same place the jets do. You can't put an "extension" on the PV. It'll lean out momentarily. For information, I run a 9375 set-up by Barry Grant. The 9375 has annular boosters and works well on low RPM motors. BG takes the 9375 and re-calibrates it to work as a single 4 Bbl. I drive mine on the street once in a while and I don't have any problems with surging or loading up. I run a .036 hi speed bleed, the idle and middle are .053 and .063, I believe. I can't remember which is which right now. Have fun.
Well i got time to mess with the carb I had to jet the thing to 82 all four corners and power back and front to make the poping stop and i drove it on the street and feels good .I removed the air bleeds with 90 jet it was the same still poping. so if i jet 82 with both power valve I hoping that will be good for now. the air bleeds are .068 are in the middle and .040 on the high speed does that sound right? Pop? When does it pop? high or low rpm? Or just initially when you go WOT? If its just initally, its not a power valve or jetting. It could be throttle blade position, too large of a main air bleed, or accelerator pump set up-pump cam or squirter size or misaligned transfer hole, or missing diapham in pump cavity. If you drive it, go with just the the front power valve. Other wise it is best to just plug them both and up the jetting. If you plug both power valves, you can just remove the intermediate air bleeds. On the Main air bleeds .040 is as high as you want to go and .034 would be the low limit.
Well the poping start at 3900 rpm if i try to drive it at part thottle it sound like it is on a two-set box and pops out the exhaust Also during the burnout but i stage preloaded the car and it took of fine 1.48 short that was with the 91 front 92 rear but i had other issues the mph was way down so i changed back to the old carb to see if that was it but. it happen to be the rear brake hose swelled closed and was holding the rear brakes on :error: I haven't made it back to the track yet but plaing with it in the driveway I kept jetting it down till the midrange pop stopped 82 back and front with the front power valve back in drove it to a car show like five miles away and it seemed to be much better I got on it once but it just smoked the tires so i'm gona go to the track this weekend for just test and tune any ideas to try would be great i would like to see this carb make a diffence now that the good air is back :TU:
Popping out the exhaust is from being overly rich. You definitely need to plug the rear power valve. If it runs best with it in, you are too rich since it pulls air going down the track leaning out the rear jetting. Try plugging the rear and going with 86 jets and see how it runs.
