I have two dominator's, one was built by Chuck M. But neither have adjustable air bleeds which I suppose means they are the older models. Regardless, can the air bleeds be drilled out, the holes tapped for the adjustable air bleeds that Holly offer's? Seems like it would work. Curious-good Carbs but I need the air bleeds adjustable. As always, thanks in advance.
Yes - Pop out the brass inserts, thread the holes. I believe they are 10-32 threads. Remember to use Holley air bleeds. BG uses a different style bleed that is counter sunk. Be careful not to take out anymore material than necessary. The volume of that cavity can effect the carb characteristics. Have fun.
Hey Len, why do you feel you "need the air bleeds to be adjustable"??? Some time ago I put up a thread regarding the 1050 Dominator and what "mods" need to be done, or problems people have come across with the Dominator, and not one person replied with mods. or problems. So I was just curious why. Have you run the car and found "something" that adjustable air bleeds would fix?? Good luck. Gary Giessen
Hi Gary, how's your Buick 'vertable? I've read about adjustable air bleeds in several publications and Robert V. over at Fast Track Performance, was tuning the carb sometime back and suggested that I needed smaller air bleeds. Far be it from me to know what the heck I'm talking about, but I'm sure many on this site could offer why they should be adjustable. Hope all is well with you Gary.
There are quite a few Buick racers that have went with smaller air bleeds on their 9375's. This is going to be the first area for tuning my car this spring.
Changing air bleeds can make a HUGE difference in the characteristics of a carburetor. BUT, when you start messing with the high speed bleed, you have to have a comprehensive test to validate your changes, such as chassis dyno or engine dyno with BSFC and A/F ratio capabilities. Remember when you modify a high speed bleed you are changing the SHAPE of the fuel curve. Meaning it may idle fine and mid-range fine, but lean out at hi RPM only. The 9375, and other Dominators, also have an intermediate circuit (and air bleed) which will also affect the shape of the fuel curve. You have to be very careful not to run the engine lean. Then you start burning pistons. If you make changes, do it in .002" or .003" increments. Start by going richer (smaller hole) it's safer. It is a very delicate system. A carburetor is basically a controlled leak. The air bleeds control how big the leak is. As a side note, some NHRA Pro Stockers don't change their main jets. They tune with the air bleeds since the engine operates in such a narrow power band. With the right instrumentation you can actually calculate what size main jet a carb/engine wants on the dyno. Any further tuning is done with the air bleeds. This also shows that a carburetor that matches the intention of the manufacturer should not need major jet changes. Have fun.
Jeff, thank very much, valuable information. I have access to a Chassis Dyno, again Robert V. of Fast Track. Your information is invaluable. Thanks again.
