Hey folks,Im changin my mind about my rod situation. I may as well put the right fn rods in it this time. Rick suggested the TA Sportsman rods,I checked their website and couldnt find info on em. Are they gonna work with the wiseco pistons I ordered? Do I need to grind the crank to chevy journal sizes,or will they go on without doin reworking? Reason I ask is I just built this motor and there shouldnt be any reason to replace the bearings.Are the pins with the wisecos going to fit?Is the length the same as factory? Thanks ..fish
Aren't aluminum a better choice for a nitrous app. What did Rick-"Buicks4speed" suggest? That car will be in the 5's before you know it :TU:
The BPG has the billet rods on sale now $899.00. Reg. $1245.95. until March 31st. They are supposed to weigh the same as stock. The Sportsman rods are 699.00. Mine weigh 784g, slightly more than stock. They came with a .9998" bushed small end I had pin fitted for my SRP pins. The Wiseco pistons have a 1.00" pin so compatibility with either rod bushed or not will not be a problem.
Steel vs Aluminum... Your right Gary, Auminum would be the "Choice" thing to do. With a stock block, you will get more life out of your rotating assembly with the light aluminum rods plus the take nitrous abuse better being they absorb some of the "shock". BUT, as a "bolt-in" deal you can't beat the sportsman rods. Stock Rods are between 705-730grams so the TA rods are adding some weight. Hopefully the pistons will loose enough that you wont have to add weight to the crank to get it to balance. If you were to go to Aluminum Rods, I would say go ahead and internally balance the motor. Going Aluminum, to do it right, would add too much cost and probably put you over budget. I tend to hold back on telling people to spend a lot of money when they first start spraying nitrous because you could have a tuning mistake or whatever and if you get too over-extended then there's no money left to fix it. So start cheep and learn then step it up. I wish I would have had more time to blow-up cheep motors learning more about what works and what doesn't and how much I can get away with. I'm sure you will have no problem selling your rods later if you eventually go to Aluminum. THe fact is that the replacement TA rods keeps things simple. It doesn't take long for things to get out of control. One thing leads to the next then its money, money, money......So until you get to the point were you can step up to a Beefed up stock block or a new block, keep it simple. Get the 3/4 grooved main bearing and groove the upper main bearing saddle and add the extra oiling holes at 45 degrees in the bearing the help oil feed to the rods. How much is your new setup going up in compression?
Rick... By the way Jim talked it will be .035 in the hole ,somewhere in the 11:1 range. I wanted to go ahead and get the bottom end ready for the stage 2s when I put em on. I am going to get the TA sportsman rods coz you are right about the budget. It can get out of control. I also need to put pushrods in it. I found a bent one on the pass. side bank when I was pulling the head to look at the piston. I used pontiac p/rods coz I had em and they seemed like they were a better length. I reckon the spring pressure finally weakened em.I will order them the same length as the pontiac ones ,but i am sure I'll need difft ones for the Stg2's oh well.Are there any suggestions while I have the engine torn down? I dont want to go back in it for a long time cuz this is gettin old.I know its my fault for leaning on the combo,but I wanted to see what the little small a-- cam,no compression,iron headed combo could do..and it bested all others before it with less nitrous than Ive ever used. I really think I am finally figuring out how to use the n2o instead of throwin down all the plate can slam in, to using it in the correct amounts and finding small gains along the way with tuning it. Thanks for the help guys...I mean it...fish :beer
