Now I'm confused. What is it, front or rear? I completely tore down my 350 a few weeks ago and my cam bearings aren't that nice anymore. I ordered grooved cam bearings from Jim Burek, and I'm thinking of letting a machine shop replace them (need to take the block to them anyway for cylinder honing and maybe some milling/decking work). But do they need to install the rear one from the front or from the back? I think this machine shop doesn't see that many Buick engines usually (Chevy's yes, but Buicks...I doubt it). So I'd rather tell them about these kind of things.
What difference does it make? The motor has to be torn down now or later? There is not a tremendous amount of bearing material missing, they are just bad. I've put this 350 through HELL. I'm not going to remove it because for a few flakes of metal. I've heard of MUCH worse. This isn't a BBB. Also I do not see why you guys think I am cutting corners. If I successfully remove the old bearings, install new ones using a proper bearing tool, and the cam spins freely then I WIN. Put yourself in my situation, this is your Daily Driver. Wish me luck boys.:beers2:
I knocked the first bearing out with a screwdriver and hammer. Wasn't that bad at all. I think I got this figured out. I am going to knock as many out as I can with a screwdriver because I am going to tie a loose wire around the bearing and block before I knock it out. Therefore, I can use whatever means necessary to remove the old bearing without fear of dropping it in the crankcase. When installing the new bearings I am going to tie a thread around the new bearing, load it in the tool, remove the thread, tap tap and done.:idea2:
Go Cason go. It can be done, I did it many years ago on my old 350(now scrapped in favor of a 455 :bla: ) and it was kinda a pain, but I did it. Let us know how it goes.:TU:
Yeah man, how did you do it? This job is going to suck, because I am going to have to do it immediately after I get back from Panama City today. ou:
lots of patience, and a good cam bearing installer. I bought the Lisle cam bearing remover/installer. More than that I don't remember as that was 1986, and most of the 80's are kinda fuzzy. I do remember it being a pita. Depends on how much access you have through the lifter galley. I seem to recall destroying the old bearings to get them out through the galleyo No: ? I did not change the rear one. Maybe if I crack my back a couple times, I can release enough residue and it will come back to me. Not having a 350 to look at right now does not help any.
Does that mean your going to be workin with a hangover and a sunburn, lol. I went there a couple years ago at this time and drank more than I ate, but damn was it a fun week...
Not much sleep, not much food, but alot of beer. Lol, I just got back and I am going to start work tomorrow morning, but saving tonight for sleep and detox.:laugh: Anways, I got the new bearings from summit and they slip down thru the lifter valley nicely.:beers2:
The News: The 3 most front bearings are replaced. It was actually pretty easy too and only took about an hour and a half. Cam now spins freely, but tight clearance.:Brow: The two rears where not as terrible. Anyone need to borrow a cam bering tool?
Were you able to get all the cam bearings in? Did you just get the standard cam bearings or did you get the dual groove cam bearings from TA? I have been noticing that some others have been saying that their cam bearings are worn out a lot.
I could have gotten the 4th, but it would have been a tad more difficult to remove so I left it since the old one wasn't as bad. I bought Clevite standard bearings. The are stock size and will fit through the lifter valley. TA bearings will NOT. The stock bearings looked downright lame in construction compared to these Clevite pieces. Modern technology definitely made a difference.
The front bearing is really easy and the middle ones are not too bad. No Joke! :TU: This situation has had a happy ending. Please I'm keeping my fingers crossed until I crank her up tomorrow.:beers2:
