Advice on frame/under chassis painting (POR15 use)

I am putting another frame under my Suncoupe. While having the body off, we are going to wirewheel under the body, clean and paint. We are looking to have the frame sandblasted to paint as well.

I looked at several old threads about POR15 and I know they were mostly outdated.

What is some good advice to use today? I stopped by the finishmaster in my little podunk town yesterday, and saw the "authorized POR15 dealer" sticker in their window. I was so happy to see that. My bubble was busted when they told me the sticker was put on the day before, and they did not know much about it yet. :rant: LOL

I did get a pamphlet on it and am gonna spend a little more time looking over what info is available in it. I see that they have some top coats in it, but did not look what they are for yet. I am not a painter myself, but have a good friend that is pretty savvy with everything (Jim Rodgers) to help me with my project.

I am open to listen to any and all advice given. We are looking to start this weekend with body removal and begin wire wheeling etc. I don't have an endless supply of money, but sure I have enough to do it right. I just want to have an educated thought process started when doing this to do it once and be done.


Thanks in advance for your help !

Mike

 

I forgot to ask this also...

Is it better to brush or spray?

If spray is usable, what type of gun is recommended and what pressure to spray at?



Also... I have a problem under my back window deck lid inside the trunk. It is rusted inside where I can't get to easily at all. Will the products with POR15 sprayed in there be easily applied there? Has anyone dealt with this before?


Thanks again !

Mike

 

Mike,

I used POR-15 on my '37 Buick with good results. I sandblasted the frame and cleaned it per POR-15's instructions then applied POR-15 with foam brushes (lots of them). I didn't try to spray it as I have heard it's hard on the gun.

 

I also used foam brushes on the underside of my car, but I also did some with the gun. Both look great. if you spray you need to also purchace the thinner made for the por15.

The pic was done with a brush. I also did the firewall with a brush and if you take your time and don't over do it it looks great.

I sprayed the rad. suport and the inner fenders I used the thinner, maybe a bit to much of the thinner. I got some small runns, the the factory also had runs so good enough for me.

Good luck

 

Thanks for your replies !

What quantities do you think I will need of the materials ?

Qts of marine clean ?

Qts of prep & ready ?

Qts or gallons of POR15 ?

Qts. Or gallons of chassis black top coat ?


Thanks again,
Mike

 

The actual paint goes along way so start with a small can. See what kinda coverage you get. I was amazed at how far a little will go. Whole back have of my Riv with a quart. Using a sponge brush. I wired brushed, power washed and scraped to prep. The metal ready neutralizes the rust. Marine clean does a great job with grease and such. Regular Por 15 is U.V. sensitive so underneath the car is a perfect place. I personally luv the stuff. I had some trail arms boxed and finished with Por 15. I needed to go back after the fact to remove a section for clearance. I was amazed how durable the finish was when I was using a cutting torch and welding on it.

Chris

 

This is what I used. The rust convertor is silver. The top coat is black. So it takes two steps.

 

I used POR15 on the frame of my car about 12 years ago and 99% of it is still there! If it weren't for the power steering hose developing a very slow leak and oozing onto it over the course of a month it would be 100%.

I used a wire brush or wire wheel on a drill to knock off all the loose rust. Washed down the area with brake clean a couple of times then using a bristle brush so I could work it into the metal painted the frame. After it all dried I went back over it with a coat of BBQ black to keep the UV from getting to it. (not that there is a lot of UV exposure UNDER the car but still)

My front and rear control/training arms I had blasted then sprayed with brake clean and brushed POR15 and they are still 100%.

Don't make the mistake I did! Wear long sleeves and rubber gloves with this stuff. Once it dries it does not just wash off. Soap, Gojo, laquer thinner or nearly anything else will NOT take it off. The thinner will help lift the skin cells and with it the POR15 if you don't mind big red marks on your arms and hands though!

regards

 

i was thinking about doing the por-15/chassis saver myself but now i'm probably just going to plan on using lizard skin combo

 

Your arms will be black for months if you get it on you and do not clean it right away and your wife will refuse to be seen with you.:spank:

 

You should powdercoat the frame if you are going as far as having it blasted.

 

Thanks again for all your inputs !

Back of a Riv with a quart ! that is pretty good. I am thinking it will be 2+ quarts with the under body and frame. Probably pushing 3. I wonder if I should just get a gallon? Will it last a decent time if the can is sealed back well? It could come in handy for future projects, I am sure... How about engine compartment side of inner fender wells? Anyone use it there?

How about the Marine Clean and Prep & Ready amounts?

They come in quarts and gallons. Do you remember how well they do for usage? We plan on using something like purple magic to soak the areas down with and then pressure washing prior to wire wheeling the remainder off.

As for the chassis... I am going to look into the cost of powder coating it, not too sure if I want to go that far. It may be an option though.


Mike

 

The POR-15 is rugged stuff, but there's plenty of precautions as far as keeping it out of your eyes and off your skin.

Eye protection is a must, obviously. Even with long sleeves and jeans, that stuff bleeds thru pretty good. I would get one of those cheap jump suits at Lowes or Home Depot (tyvek I think).

Get some of those long dish washing type gloves too, in addition to latex or other. They are more durable for the actual applying.

I would recommend putting a moisturizer/lotion on your exposed skin(especially face and neck).....helps in the clean up department.

When you're done, if there is any product left - put plastic wrap on the paint. That keeps the oxygen away from it and keeps a very hard skin from developing. Don't just put it on the top of the container, push it right into the top of the paint.

As much as that stuff costs....you want to have a fighting chance at using it all.

 

Wow ! Great idea to put the plastic right on top of the paint. It is quite pricey, and we need to save every drop possible to use in the future.

I will look at the tyvek suits. That may be pretty nice protection. It sounds like nasty stuff for the human body, but worthwhile for the Buick body, lol.


Trying to get prices from my podunk town of Brunswick. I called our Finishmasters for prices yesterday and still have not heard back from them. I really get annoyed here with basically one of anything. They think they don't have to work for my business. I will not hesitate to go to Jacksonville of Savvanah to get my supplies.


We hope to get started this weekend with preperations after getting the body up on a dolly to clean and work on. Woo-Hoo !



Mike

 

I am sure I used a gallon on my car. I did all the suspention stearing and underhood. I still think the quart is the best deal unless you are going to be spending a week painting. If the por15 is left it dries and becomes unusable. If you loos part of a quart the hit isn't as bad as if you loose 1/2 gallon.

Good luck

 

Get a quart. It has a terrible halflife once opened, you want to lose as little as possible. The foam brushes work great, but it does destroy them. Deteriorates the foam, and the glue. Single use. For that reason I would hesitate to run it through a gun.... nothing cleans this stuff up, so I would say there is a very real risk of ruining the gun.

It self levels pretty well, but it will collect into bubbles at the lower edges of your project if you are not vigilant, and these bubbles will bust off easily later, leaving places for moisture to get back in. Don't touch it before its cured, it fingerprints bad.

 

I can't see how it would be cheaper to power coat. $7-900 to powder coat I am thinking. Blasting is basically free for me and then I am looking at materials for POR15.

I like the idea of powdercoating, but I am looking at the POR15 being as durable as I need it to be. That is my thoughts at least.

I am looking to brush the POR15 now with the inputs that I have received.

I am curious if it is OK to spray the top coat paint that is sold to UV protect the POR15. I guess that is my question.

I am planning on getting quarts from the inputs also. It may cost a little more, but waste reduction will overcome the cost - I am thinking.


I am still up for comments, suggestions, inputs etc...


Thanks again for all the help,
Mike

 

I bought the larger containers of the metal ready and cleaner. I have used the cleaner on lots of applications. Spraying depends on the finish you want in my opinion. On the back of the Riv with all the rough surfaces the sponge brush was very effective. Smoother surfaces turned out great. I even taped extensions on the brush to run it up inside frame rails and such. And do not underestimate what will happen if you get this stuff on you. IT DOES NOT COME OFF. It wears off only. As far as finish on UV exposed surfaces follow POR 15 instructions and you will be fine. I kept a quart can for over a year using the plastic wrap and lid method. If you don't get it sealed well it will form a hard shell on top. I have broke thru that and used the product and it seemed to work fine but I wouldn't recommend that. I used a plastic tray as I went and when it drys you pop the dry stuff out and reuse the tray.

Chris

 

ps. Chassis saver is the same spec as por-15 but a tad cheaper

 

:gp: