I need the A/C duct that runs from the heater-A/C plenum to the drivers side vent. I may need a passenger side and a heat plenum/diverter as well. Im not sure if the pass side was rigid or a hose. Any ideas? 1972 GS 455 Bill Notice where the flex hose enters the diverter plenum... should that hose be inserted that far and is the plenum broken or designed that way??
Looks like the plenum is split open, and they stuffed the hose inside of it. The plenum should be sealed, and the hose slips on the outside. I may have all of the parts that you need.
DO TELL! The whole AC system is gone or busted, PLUS "expertly re-wired" LOL. The evaporator area is the only part that looks reasonably intact. Its gonna be an expensive venture to make this part work! For orientation purposes, the bottom pic shows the wiring job on the 400 kick down switch. YIKES! Bill
I have both of the hard plastic ducts that you need, and the short paper one that connects them together. $25 plus shipping if you are interested.
You have everything there for the AC. Your TH400 kickdown is correct because the factory wiring went to the fuse box junction and then thru the firewall...I always bypass that set-up and run the wire from the switch directly to the trans switch...as yours is done. The AC controller looks ok but your cluster is shot...someone probably pushed on the controller breaking the plastic socket/screw stands from the cluster....best bet....remove the cluster and get another one...I bet the same problem is there for the wiper switch. Dorman makes the correct plastic duct for $20-21 in 6ft length...you can get that thru NAPA.
Thanks for that input George! The PO mentioned something about that kickdown being out of adjustment, but I haven't driven it enough to figure that out. I had the carb done (done many myself on boats, but wanted a Q-jet guy to do the car) as it turns out the choke butterfly screws were loose, the choke pull off was missing the jesus clip and the spring on the secondary butterflies was off in effect locking them closed. The shifter needs adjustment so it wont pull down into low. Once you start off in drive, its in second gear right away and without being able to hold it in low, its hard to tell whats' what. The AC system has been open for 20 years. The compressor turns (barely) and the condenser/drier and brackets are gawn. Ive got some junk ones for a fit up from a 72 skylark. The controls inside "appear" to work. The dash will come out but that's later... today its header gaskets, alternator install, carb install, and some wiring clean up. Its atrocious ! Wanna get this stuff done (drivable) before the double knee replacement in January. Just got the heat on in the shop... its 20F here this morning with a 20 mph breeze right off the lake... BRRRRR ! Bill in TR FWIW... I know this aint the right place, but all the "exspurts" chime in on the AC thred and the electrical thred; I prefer talking about this stuff with guys that have hands on experience!
The duct that's split, you could probably fix easily. The kickdown is a one time adjustment, it is kind of self adjusting after that. You have the wrong fan shroud on your car I think, probably the wrong fan also.
On all the 70 & 71s Ive owned, the overflow tank was always fender mounted. This one (1972) has the tank and washer juice tank integral with the shroud. The fan is a viscous clutch fan. Havent counted the blades. It wouldnt surprise me if some of the stuff isn't correct. Im finding lotsa little wrong stuff as I progress. Today I spent 6 hours getting 10-1/2 of the 14 header bolts out for a gasket job. MEIN KAMPF! Theres 3-1/2 to go and haven't busted any yet. Got all 12 fingers crossed. The bottom center is the worst one by far. Hooker headers... whats the trick? So far Ive cracked 3 7/16 craftsman and snap on sockets (3/8 drive) 1 Proto box wrench, and had to grind down a 1/2" drive impact socket to fit against the tubes. Ive got new socket head cap screws to use where applicable, and will run a bottom tap into the holes AND of course, use never seize. (worked in a power plant for 30 years!). Im spent! ws
PMs sent to both the guys that offered the ducting. Thanks much! Now I gotta go back out and take a pic of that kick down switch AND The Shroud of Turin... Bill in TR
That's pretty interesting...Hmmm. Theres no interference with anything except the lower alternator pivot bolt. Had to come off (move over 1/2") to get that bolt out. Theres no indication of mounting holes on the fender or well. The washer reservoir is intact with the shroud and evidence of a missing carbon can opposite the battery mount on the drivers side. Theres also some better pics of the kick down switch. Looks home made (?) with the switch bracket being welded onto the OEM throttle mount. Hmmm X 2! Theres also a small resistor mounted on top. The green wire goes behind the motor into the forbidden zone. My kid does that stuff with directions from the pilot house LOL... ws Lest we not forget the MOAB... The Mother Of All Bolts. Feel like heating the pipe and putting a ding in it to clear the wrench!
Yeah there is two bolt holes on the fender behind the ground bolt,and one on the inner fender,the other side of the shroud is for the windshield washer reservoir . I had one of those before and I cut both of those off . It uses the same mounting points as the right shroud for that car. The one you have works but just isn't right. ---------- Post added at 08:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:49 PM ---------- Hey bill is this a 350 or 455 car originally ? It being a 72 the vin will tell.
Mustve taken a hit on that side or something... I know how hard the correct shrouds are to find, Im just glad it fits/works. Im already at about the 40% overwhelmed point and cant afford too many more projects just now. I need this guy back together before the end of January when I get both knees changed out... just like a nascar race only different! I may actually be able to walk again! Are you still planning a trip up here for that sheetmetal? Ive got the kid scrapping out some window units and old differentials etc for the scrap yard. If you want them, Ill keep them. If not, no biggy, Ill have the kid strip them too... Bill in TR
Yes I'm still in for the sheet metal, but he can strip them down if you want. I only need the doors themselves,and the fender and the deck lid .
As of now, these still have the clear glass, regs, hinges, and door handles. Offer still stands, intact or gutted. Your call. Bill
Turns out that the shroud is probably from the big car, and the fan is a 7 blade 20" diameter unit with a clutch. Seems to cool OK... Make sense?? Bill in TR
Back at it!! So now I really do need the drivers side cross over AC duct (rigid plastic) and the vent hose... mines kinda gnarly. I would like to have it by next week if possible. Brackets?? Nows the time eh?? Thanks, Bill in TR
