Help! My blower motor is not coming on in my '71 Skylark. Replaced the heater core about a month ago and the heat was working fine (seemed like it was working too good :af: ). Blower wasn't making any noise or anything last time I used it. It was working fine. Tried to turn it on last night, and nothing. No squeal or anything. Checked the fuse, replaced the relay and checked wiring to the box on the firewall in the engine compartment. Anyone have any suggestions on what to check next? What is the easiest way to get to the motor? Thanks! Dee
Check to see if you have power going to the blower motor, I believe it is the purple wire that runs from the relay to the motor, and also check and make sure there is a good ground running to the motor as well. Hopefully there is a simple wiring problem and you don't have to pull the inner fender to get to the motor.
The motor has a separate ground wire jumper back into the engine bay. Check to see if it has come loose. I presume you have checked the fuse first.
1 more thing to check, look at the resistor on the air condition box, if you have air conditioning that is. There is a cheap and easy was to get to the motor, or the time consuming correct way....the easy way is to cut a hole in the fender well and take it out that way....the hard way is to actually remove the hood hinge on the passenger side, support the hood, take off the fender and take the blower out that way....IMHO, I'd rather take the fender off and make sure the job is done right, fender wells for our cars are few and far between to hack up if you miss the correct spot. :TU: Larry :3gears:
I believe you can take the weight off the suspension dsiconnect the inner fender, insert a block of wood at the bottom and slide it down enough to do the job without removing the hood and outer fender.
Can you get to the motor from under the dash by pulling the air box where the heater core is located? Thought that was the way I did it years ago but can't remember.o No: I sure didn't loosen the fender or anything external. Dee
sorry to say Dee, but its impossible to remove it that way unless your arms are made of rubber and you can get to the bolts on the outside of the motor housing. As far as the wood block method, I've never tried this....I've always removed the fender and attacked it that way..sometimes the easier way to do something is actually the harder road....Dee, just make sure your blower motor is dead and its not a switch, fuse, resistor, or broken wire.....I have fallen victum of Murphy's law 1 too many times myself....(reminder to self: always check a fuse first :laugh: )...cant tell you how many times I've replaced things and all it was, was a dam fuse ou: .....Like I said...removing the fender is the best way and look on the bright side...all those dead leaves will come out too :laugh: . Good luck Dee, and keep us all posted :TU:
And the thing worked soooo good after we replaced the heater core! :ball: Knew it was too good to last. When it would get too cold in the house, we would go out and turn on the car to get warm. :laugh: I ALWAYS start from the fuse box and work out from there. Went to the relay on the firewall and replaced it. Went to the A/C box on the firewall and checked everything there. Checked up under the dash and couldn't see anything wrong. If there is ANYTHING else anyone can think of, let me know. It's getting cold outside! HAPPY NEW YEAR! :beer :beer Dee
I have a problem like this one, but my blower motor will come on when in the "MAX" position. No other position settings run the blower motor. I understand there is a series of resistors that provide the various speeds, Is this true? If so where is it and how hard is it to test or replace.
I'm going to get my manual out and look to see if the wiring diagram is in there. Why didn't I think of that sooner? ou: If I see anything, I'll let you know. Dee
