Hello everyone, I hope this is the right place to post this. I'm looking for replacement axle shafts for my '76 Estate Wagon. The story is this: when the left rear brake pipe burst (corrosion...) i started checking out my rear axle, and I found that the previous owner was very easily satisfied. He (or she, you never know) put on these thick hubbed American Racing rims, with spacers even, but with the original wheel studs. The nuts are hardly biting on the studs, five turns max. Pretty scary! Also, I found my right rear brake full of grease, coming from the bearing seal. I also found a Chevy axle shaft was placed and it has a ridiculous amount of end play. Needless to say, I lost all fatih in my rear axle and I need to fix it all. To start with I want to place new axle shafts, bearings, C-clips and seals. Because I also need longer wheel studs, I was thinking of aftermarket shafts so I can put in screw-in studs, because I'm having hard luck finding longer press-in studs for Estate Wagons. I've been searching a lot, but I can't seem to find either the correct part number for '76 EW shafts, or dimensional information on shafts that are compatible. So I'm hoping someone can help me to find fitting axle shafts? OEM ones with press-in studs would be fine, I can machine some longer wheel studs with a larger knurl down to fit if necessary. Many thanks ahead.
Ok well I can help but will need pictures of the rear diff cover area to see whgat rear we are dealing with. Then we need the length of the axle shaft from end of button to drum mounting surface. TOTAL length. I will also need the bearing surface diameter if it is c-clip i am sure it will be 1.618 ish (inches) please Studs should not be an issue either as these should be 1/2 x 20 thread full size car. pop one stud and measure the knurl and the hole. will get them for you. what do you think about 2" long studs? less or more? you can go up to 3" usually. Jim J D
"Easy Rider": Please put your name in your signature, we are all here on a friendly first name base :TU: And don't forget to introduce yourself in the Wet behind the ears?? section of the board. I'm not sure if your model year 1976 EW still came with the 12 bolt without C clips. If that's the case: In October 2010 I gave two axle shafts to board member 75Riv (Rob from Boxtel, Noord Brabant), they came from my old 1973 Riviera 12 bolt axle. I'm pretty sure that Rob still keeps those shafts in his lock up, so contact him if you have a 12 bolt. (Come to think of it, I worked on the differential of a model year 1976 Caprice and that car came with a 10 bolt with C-clips) Another option is my mate Rick, a.k.a. "The Cannibal" from Zeeland: Click banner for website :Comp: I'm pretty sure Rick can help you out with used axle shafts :TU: Last but not least: Post a few photos of your wagon in the European Buicks thread :Comp: I know about only three model year 1976 (rectangular headlights) Estate Wagons in the Netherlands: A red one with faded "wood" (I can't find a photo of it right now) And the two white examples below: < Click thumbnails :Comp:
Thanks Jim and Erik! I'll introduce myself tomorrow evening, been a busy day at work so i'm hitting the sack in a few minutes. I'll have a look at the axle this weekend (still working on the brake pipes, they're really stuck in there...) I'll take some pictures, note the bolt-count and check for other markings. Shaft length and bearing diameter would be tricky as I'd have to pull it first. I was kind of hoping to get the new axles (with bearings and seals), place the longer studs, and then get to work. And Erik, the first white one (it's more beige or tan actually) is mine Thanks again guys!
Well, it's a 10-bolt axle, and that's about as far as I got. I'm still looking for the code stamped in the axle tube, it's hard to find. I'll look deeper into that when I get to work on the brake pipes this weekend. Found out those codes aren't stamped too deep, so I'll have to remove some paint/coating/gunk whatever it all is... Wheel seals are definitely gone, found a puddle of oil in the right rear brake this afternoon while looking for that stamped code.
Pull the axle shafts and inspect them for wear in the area where they are supported by the bearings. If things are looking bad, you can use stuff like a "Speedi-sleeve" or "relocated bearings" to fix the problem, or contact my mate Rick for (an) used axle shaft(s) :TU: New seals and bearings are in stock at Hageman US Parts in Doorn :Comp:
Thanks Erik! About pulling the axles, thing is, I don't have a garage. Best I can do is take it to work, where I can spend the day, but no longer than that, because I don't want to leave it there overnight, 'cause right now there's no room inside. And because everything takes place outside, rain is a b---h. Plus, I gathered you need a slide hammer to pull 'em, and I don't have one. I'm planning to make one though, it'll come in handy for lots of other stuff, but I need to get the materials together first. Edit: didn't know Hageman, added the site to the favourites!
Remove the cover, remove the bolt (blue square) and the shaft (red square). After doing so, remove the planet gears + shims, and remove the C-clips. After that you can pull the axle shafts out without any trouble :TU: (Limited slip) exploded view: < Click image for a bigger version :Comp: YouTube video: <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/WqdmUPWpI9c" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> I use the axle shaft to remove the outer bearings, just hook the "C-clip gap" behind the bearing and give it a firm pull :TU:
Thanks Erik, that's some good information! FInally pulled all the brake pipes today, man were they stuck... But: I also found the axle code!! Felt like an archeologist uncovering this: 6 YC P 077N From what i gathered this decodes the axle to a Pontiac plant and a night shift on the 77th day of the year. The "YC" I can;t seem to link to a ratio code, and the first 6 is a mystery to me. Hope anyone can help me find the correct axle shaft for this one. Also, the problem got cut in half, the left axle shaft is still original (for the axle) and has no leaks or ridiculous end play, and even the wheel studs are long enough! So that's very good news, and I'll be sleeping better
Ok, so I've been searching and searching and searching the internet, and I couldn't hook this axle code to anything but a '69 Firebird or '74 full-size Pontiac. Is there any way for me to find the correct axle without having to open up the diff, pulling axles, etc.? That would be such a pain knowing I'd have to do it all over again once I get a new axle shaft... Is it possible to check the number of teeth in the spline without pulling the axle? Could the left and right axle have a different spline? Draining the diff and resealing it and refilling it would still be a hassle, but it eliminates pulling the axle(s) at least. You know, I just hadn't realised exactly how many variables there are in GM rear axles, that would still leave you with a (reasonably) working rear end. I mean, it just could really be any axle shaft from any car from any year in there?
Ok, I've caved, there's just soooo many variables... Here I was thinking if I got an axle code I can just pick something out of a catalogue. And I've been around old cars since I was a kid ou: I'm going to pull the axle shafts this weekend, and compare the left (good) with the right (bad). I know what the points to look at are now, thanks Jim and Erik! BTW Erik: just came across a huge page-filling ad for Hageman in my club magazine 'The Cruiser' just now, don't know how I missed that!
Well, I pulled the axles today! It wasn't easy, the bottom of the trunk has been lowered to fit the LPG tanks where the third bench would've been, and that makes working on the diff quite more difficult. Especially reaching the top bolt of the diff cover... pfew. But,this is what I found: they're 30 spline, about 31.9 inches long and the bearing surfaces are indeed 1.618(ish). The end play is most likely caused by worn C-clips, the surfaces were a bit "run-in". The bearing surfaces of the axles still look and feel pretty good, although I suspect the right side one (which was replaced) could have a bit of trouble keeping the oil in, it looks just a little worn on the seal position. However, I won't know for sure until I get new seals, because they were really, really done on the right. By the way, I found there was a second seal on the inside of the bearing. Is that the correct setup? It seems to me the oil wouldn't be able to reach the bearing? So, I'll start the search for new C-clips, bearings (they seemed fine but why not, If I'm pulling shafts anyway) and seals. Didn't have the time to pop any studs... I'm guessing they'll both be different as one is still the original shaft and the other one's a Chevy. Can the original wheelstuds be removed/placed on a mounted axle? Things are looking up, exciting
Well I can tell you I DO NOT LIKE the new site posting. IT IS A MESS... Just for the record... I wrote all this once and the site did not post it. You always need to go advanced to get it to work the quote reply is garbage. On to it. Please post pictures of the rear diff cover area. Next double check your spline count 30 or 31? BIG DIFFERENCE... If your cover is round 10 bolt and you have 10 bolt ring gear you have a 10 bolt 8.5 and is usually 28 spline in that era 1976. (exceptions wagons but this started in the mid tto late 80 wagons...USUALLY) If the cover has 10 bolts and is scalloped at 9 and 3 o'clock (cut outs like a Pontiac tempest rear) then it is a Full size PONTIAC rear and will have 31 spline axles with 1.618 bearing surface Seal issues. There should NOT be a seal inboard of the c-clip axle bearing as the bearing NEEDS the oil from the center section oil. PLEASE recount the splines and PLEASE send us pictures of the rear cover area The studs should be 1/2" x 20 press in studs 5 on 5 lug wheel pattern Jim J D Race
Hi Jim, Well it's a darn shame the site didn't post this, it's some good information. Like the spline count for instance, I recounted it many times and what I found on the internet I thought it just had to be a 30-spline, while I kept counting 31... I thought I was mad, I see now that I'm not (that much :Brow. So: it's indeed a Pontiac rear axle, with the 10-bolt cover with scallops and, ofcourse, the 31 spline axle shafts with 1.618 bearing surfaces. And the studs are press-in 1/2" x 20 studs. I've ordered all the replacement parts, few weeks from now my Buick will have a nice and tight rear axle and a custom stainless exhaust system hooked up to some TA Performance shorty headers. Sweet :grin: You know, being a Pontiac axle, would that be a wide-track axle? That would be awesome! Also, I'm very glad now that the brake pipe burst and the 'outer' seal failed, otherwise I wouldn't have noticed all this stuff that needed attention before it was too late... Especially that ridiculous 'inner' seal! I'm very glad I took my Buick off the hands of the previous owner! -Indra
Well, after a few test drives I think I can call my labors a success. It was quite the job removing what turned out to be (totally missed that...) the cheap chinese repair bearings. It does explain why the seals failed so utterly. I drilled out the axle shafts and fitted longer studs, so the rear wheels are fastened properly again. I can finally enjoy my Buick on the road again Thanks to everybody for their help!
