70 Riviera Dash Pad Removal...and what is this wire for?

Discussion in 'Interior City' started by 70Riv455, Dec 27, 2023.

  1. 70Riv455

    70Riv455 Well-Known Member

    My gas gauge is not working. I did the testing and eliminated it being a problem with the sending unit. Working on taking apart the dash. I removed the glove box and 4 nuts on the studs on the right side of dash pad and removed the screws on the cluster. I also dropped the column etc. How hard do you have to pull on the dash pad to get it out? I don't want to break anything. Also I found this while feeling around for bolts by the headlight switch. Any idea what it is for?
    VideoCapture_20231226-175258.jpg
     
  2. GSX 554

    GSX 554 Gold Level Contributor

    That appears to be the ground washer for the headlight switch .
     
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  3. 70Riv455

    70Riv455 Well-Known Member

    It was just laying up there...shouldn't it be on the switch itself?
     
  4. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Yes, it goes between the switch and the instrument panel.

    See https://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/70_chassis/files/120-f.php for panel instructions. With all necessary fasteners removed, you'll still have to pull rearward on the dash pad pretty firmly to remove, there are some studs on the pad that fit into spring clips and can hold pretty tightly, you can see them on the last page of the instructions linked.

    Devon
     
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  5. 70Riv455

    70Riv455 Well-Known Member

    Thanks. I have the shop manual you posted which is what I am using for the removal. Seems like someone was in there already...do you think this could be the cause of my gauge not working possibly? Maybe not a proper ground? Or is this all just headlight switch related? Headlights work fine.

    Thanks for the tip on the pad removal! I guess I will just pull harder
     
  6. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    The switch ground may not be at fault for gauge function, but who knows? Once inside it may simply be another ground issue. Sometimes just cleaning the contacts on the main instrument connector and circuit sheet receiver can fix things like this.

    Good luck!

    Devon
     
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  7. 70Riv455

    70Riv455 Well-Known Member

    Welp I got it...just needed to tug harder. Trick is to grab it on the right side corner lip at the top and the side and pull straight back. Then work your way over to towards the drivers side. Thank you!

    I got the cluster screws out and found one nut that I missed on the right side of the A/C controls. Took car of that...but now the cluster is not pulling very easy. Only comes out about 1/2 to 1 inch Any advice?

    20231227_170033.jpg
     
  8. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Many parts holding that thing in. Speedo cable, wiring harness, AC bowden cables.
     
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  9. 70Riv455

    70Riv455 Well-Known Member

    Just pull harder until I can un-clip stuff? I saw in the Service Manual where it says to unscrew the heater controls, but I am not seeing where to do that.

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  10. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Those instrument clusters were installed from the factory with all of the wiring and cables attached to it. The "right" way to pull that cluster is to basically pull everything out of the dash (ash tray, glove box liner) so you can access the other ends of those cables.

    But there is a chance you could wiggle the cluster out enough to access what you're needing. But there is also a good chance you will break stuff.
     
  11. 70Riv455

    70Riv455 Well-Known Member

    I pulled everything out already. Ash tray, glove box liner are out. The only things connected are the parts on the cluster itself. Speedo, gas gauge, idiot lights, headlight switch etc. A/C controls are still connected a well and I am not seeing where I can get in there to unbolt.
     
  12. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Try to take a look at the speedo cable. It has virtually no give. You may have to drop the column more.
     
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  13. 70Riv455

    70Riv455 Well-Known Member

    ok I will give it a try...thanks man
     
  14. 70Riv455

    70Riv455 Well-Known Member

    I was able to get the heater controls disconnected..what a PITA. I then unhooked the speedo cable from the cruise. Its out a little more...I popped off the wire straps and pulled off the main wire connector for the printed circuit. The clock wie did not want to come off so I unscrewed the clock for now. Still not out yet and I am questioning why I decided to do this LOL
     
  15. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    So , ya, Been there and done that and really cant remember why. I do know for a fact its something I never want to do again IMG_20131223_112124.jpg
     
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  16. 70Riv455

    70Riv455 Well-Known Member

    So with nothing connected shouldn't the fuel gauge go to empty? I have looked up gauge clusters for sale and that is what I am seeing. Mine sits at full. When I plug everything in and put the ignition on it moves just a little more towards full. Someone was def in here before. The bulbs for the heater controls were no in their correct spot. They were just laying on top of the controls, and also the pic above where the headlight switch ground is not connected.

    There is also a small cut on the PCB which is suspect as being a problem. UGH Have a broken spring on the clock as well.

    20231229_165759.jpg 20231229_170044.jpg
     
  17. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Send the clock off to get a quartz conversion of buy the kit and do it yourself. Thinking I have a couple pulled clusters laying around if you need the PCB
     
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  18. 70Riv455

    70Riv455 Well-Known Member

    Where do you buy the kit for the conversion?

    If it is the PCB, how much are you looking to get for one?
     
  19. 70Riv455

    70Riv455 Well-Known Member

    Last edited: Dec 30, 2023
  20. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    If you need it shoot me PM. It'll be very reasonable
     

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