I have been thinking for a long time now about how I could change the stock 4 link to make it hook more consistent other than air bags and adjustable upper arms. I'm thinking for 1 I will get all durelube bushings or those bearing type for the upper mounts on the hog so they won't bind when the rear of the car squats. Another thing I have been wanting to do is add coil over shock conversion mounted behind the rearend like a racing 4 link and put a panhard bar to keep side to side movement to a minimum. I have told an older stocker racer about this and he just says dont do it. I would like to know if any racers on here have tried this and what shocks do they use. The oem springs mount in front of the rear end so how is the weight of the body going to rotate to the rear of the car to keep the rear tires planted to the track. I'm no physics major but why does a racing 4 link have the coil overs mounted to the rear of the axle tubes. The Regals have the springs mounted on the tubes which I think that would be better. I have seen lots of fast 10.5 tire cars so we should be able to get these Buicks to hook like those cars do.:beers2:
Nothing says that the coil overs have to be front or rear. Usaully its in the rear because of packaging. Also if you mount in the front it will take different spring than it would in the rear configuration. Rick
The biggest issue mounting them in front will room. I guess the panhard bar would mount more to rear then. Then springs would be lighter. No reason you couldn't do it. I dare ya.:bla:lol
No I want to mount them in the back like an aftermarket 4 link. I was saying that the oem spring mounts are positiioned on the front of the axle tube and I think it is causing a pressure on the body weight pushing on the front of the axle than it should be pushing at the rear of the axle. For traction I think the weight of the car should be all behind the axle. I have got more consistent 60 foots buy adding weight in the trunk. I don't like the oem mounts being in front of the axle for drag racing.
I thought you were already cutting a good 60 foot time??? If so I would just add HR hardparts or Spoohn bar.
How about a lift bar system like this one? http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/21312/10002/-1 Does anyone have any experience with such a setup? Pros and cons of using it?
Why? If you get the right parts stock type suspension works fine. We have gone 1.36 on a 9" radial slick in a 3500lb street car with HR stuff.
I'm bringing this thread back up because I'm thinking about moving the rear frame rails in a little and putting the rear coil over kit in possibly with the QA1 kit. Does anyone know what pound spring would be best for a 70 GS, mostly gutted 8 GL fuel cell, 12 point cage, and possible glass door at some point. Does anyone have a kit for sale that they didn't use.
I'd say maybe the #125 to #150 range. Best to get a weight for the back of the car. I cut the locator off of the spring perch and welded on an adjustable set up to run a coilover spring in the stock location to control ride height. I ended up with the 10" 150lb spring but I have full interior.
You are a little twisted there but that would be another factor after the coil overs was installed. I would put that upper bar in and mount them close to the frame rails, which I am going to move in a little, and where I used to used air bags to keep the front end straight I was thinking on raising the right side mount a little and maybe an adjustable swaybar, and a panhard bar.
Car never leaves twisted. Just the camera angle. No need for bags in todays world. Use a anti roll bar and it will be taken care of.
"Chassis Works" has all the parts you need and tech people to help you get the right springs. Have the car weight and percentage ready when you call them.
