Don't have enough money pits at this time: testing the waters for a 69 Riv, or at least a solid body that does not need a lot of cutting and welding.
Would you settle for a '68? If interested drop me a line for details. The attached picture is not my car but exactly what it will look like. Color and vinyl roof are the same. Not quite done. gary.fanning@mci.com
Dan, No, it's not. I also noticed the GS badge in the picuture after I posted. I'm not sure what the GS entails but I'm thinking 3.42 posi for one, maybe a bigger swaybar. My car has 3.07 open rear but I have a posi carrier that can go with it. I'd prefer the 3.07 for cruising.. Riviera isn't exactly a drag car. I wouldn't mind getting rid of it before I have to spend cash on a fender dent, paint and vinyl roof as well as freshening of the original 430. The rest is done, new suspension throughout, all bumper brackets, hood hinges, etc. have been blasted and painted. The chassis is good to go as is the interior. Ok it might need carpet but should clean up. I understand the draw to the GS but I never considered it a big deal in a Riv. That's just me, tho'.
A9 GS Package '68 Riviera GS Package: (A9 Option) HD Suspension, 3.42 Posi, WW Radial or Wide Oval Tires, or Redline Wide Oval Tires, Chrome Breather Cover,and GS Fender Badging. :TU:
Gorgeous looking car Gary, for some unknown reason had my heart set on a 69 though. I'll keep the 68 in mind though!
'68 Riviera vs. '69 Fuel pump location - electric vs.mechanical with trunk access, plastic grill, rear marker lamps, rear tail light bezels, tail light lenses, 'R' logo on gas tank door cover, door pull strap bezels, and probably a few more ! But they are almost kissing cousins, . . . or very close sisters ! Sorry, but I do not speak German :beer :TU: !
im selling my 69 rivi if your interested. heres the link to my ad. email me at chamillitary216@sbcglobal.net if your interested http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com/addetail.html?86661901
'68 has the side directional lights, does the '69? FYI I have 2 complete and good grilles and two sets of functional headlight vacuum canisters and two vacuum resevoirs for this car. I'm thinking I'll refresh the 430 (not bore it unless requested), put the car back together, clean it up and put it on the market as is, instead of fixing one dent in one fender and paying the money for a paint job. It'll go for less but I'm never sure I can get the money out if I invest even more. The next guy can have it painted to the degree he'd like it. Everything else will be done.. the hard part.. suspension, blasting and painting bumper brackets and all that, painting and detailing the engine parts, etc... ALL DONE. Someone come up with a respectable offer and I'll git'r dun.
Not to hijack the thread...there are a number of 68's and '69's on ebay right ow including a few GS's.... Now my questions..My headlight canisters work great, but neither of them closes the headlights completely, so the lights aren't straight up, and the grille isn't "completed" when they're closed. Is there any way to adjust them? I am NOT going to hop mine up, but while I had the heads off, I toyed with the idea of putting my ported heads on it. The main reasons I didn't were, it's so darn original, and I worried about the two piece driveshaft not being able to take a lot of extra power. Was this concern valid? I know I've seen some fast Rivs, and was there in BG the night the '68 or '9 pulling a GSX on a trailer beat two locals who were racing each other from a light. I have found a few problems the rear defroster and trunk light aren't getting power....is there a common link that might explain both, or am I stuck tracing wires to the fuse block through the dash? Last, I finally got it on the road yesterday, without any drips, burps or leaks, but the heater doesn't get warm. The vacuum bypass at the back of the motor looks fine, but is there any way to test it without just changing it? Thanks, Dan
You should be able to just bypass the vacuum bypass and run the heater without it. Just insert a piece of pipe or such between the hose ends. You'd have hot water going to the heater core at all times. Also, the problem could be in the heater control.. not controlling vacuum to the can. Gary
'68 / '69 Riviera Querries - I think you unintentionally hijacked the thread Dan - oops ! o No: The headlight travel is adjustable - the threaded clevis on the top of the rod portion of the vacuum cannister can be moved up or down and locked into postion with a nut at the base to provide full travel of the pods. Take care if it does not turn - if you break the rod by over forcing the clevis the vacuum cannisters are toast ! They are not very thick in the threaded portion and will snap easily. Use a little penetrating oil and let them soak for a long while. The headlight pods have two adjusting screws (with rubber tips) and locking nuts - one is for 'full up' and the other is for 'full down' position. The rear defroster, and trunk light obtains power from seperate sources - make sure you have a good chassis ground for both units, as they both need to be grounded to function ! A shop manual is also a good source for reference for info ! . . . hope this helps ! :beer :TU:
Riviera Drag Car Yeeoooooooooowch ! Them's fighting words to some folk Gary ! ! ! ou: :shock: :shock: :af: :TU:
Well, if you're going to drag race a big moose like a Riv, you had better have white letter tires on it!! :TU:
