So I jumped in head first into the resto of my 68 Riv (I'm already regretting it:spank: ) Ive been on the fence about replacing the factory original top. I've finally come to the realization that it really needs to go. It looks OK now, but its gonna look like crap with the new paint. So any tips or tricks I need to know here? Im thinking the roof rail trim can stay on. I assume the top installer can use a putty knife to get it behind the trim? That trim looks like an absolute nightmare to remove. I'm pretty sure they built the car around it. Who makes the best top? naturally, Im looking for the exact style material. The original grain looks very smooth. It could be that its that worn ? I would appreciate any 66-70 Riv vinyl top pics if any of you have any. The metal filler below the rear window looks impossible to remove in this situation as well. Looks like the rear window will need to be pulled. The window has slide down over the years and has partially covered the screws with glass:blast: . Looks like the rear window was leaking at one time as there was a whole lot of clear silicone under the stainless trim. Same for the front glass. Im starting to see alot of $$$$ signs here. Im starting to get scared! p
Jason, A year ago, I contacted SMS auto fabrics for samples. http://www.smsautofabrics.com/ They quoted me at the time $325.00 for a pre made top for my '70. I haven't taken my old one off yet, just peeled up the areas where it meets the quarter panel so I can paint beyond the edge. I'm pretty sure that drip rail moulding has to come off since the top is trapped under it from what I understand. I hear an old bottle opener does the trick. I'd like to practice on a car in a junkyard first I think.
Out of curiosity Dale, is your vinyl somewhat flat and not textured? BTW...taking those "R" emblems off the sail panel in a pain the b***s.
You might be able to get away without removing the drip rail stainless trim Jason. The original vinyl was held in place by a plastic strip that was wedged into the bottom of the drip rail with a 'special' tool, Take a look in the body manual and you will see how they were originally installed - talk to a professional installer and see what they have to say about it. The holes in the top of the rear window metal filler are slotted verticaly so all you hafta do is loosen the top screws (assuming they are accessible?), and remove the lower ones to pull the filler. Based on age of the car, and from what I have learned, I would recommend pulling the rear glass to inspect the condition of the window surround for rust damage, or water leakage (especially under the back seat cushion), and reseal the glass after your new top is installed - same goes for the front glass too. You can also replace any of the spring steel window moulding clips that have rusted or are missing - they have nylon replacements that won't rust, so it would be an ideal opportunity to replace them with new ones. The vinyl top does sit down inside the upper front and rear glass top channel, and the top instal will definetly be a lot easier and better with the glass removed. My '68 did have a black vinyl top, but I stripped it off, and chose not replace it, figuring I could always add one later - I also removed all the vinyl top trim stainless, and the 'R' emblems on the sail panel (the holes were filled). I was not able to find a non-vinyl filler strip, and had to use my original make-believe vinyl embossed one with lots of filler. I have since got a non-vinyl filler panel, but just haven't got around to painting and installing it. I doubt I will ever go back to a vinyl top, as the car looks better without it -IMHO ! Good luck with your resto Jason - it's a big job ! o No: :beer :TU:
Here is a pic of what the top material should look like. This stuff is readily available at any competant upholstery shop. Agree 100% with Rivman by all means have at a minimum the rear glass removed to check the pinch weld area for rust. Should you find later there is a leak and rust repair is needed, theres a good probability the new top could be damaged during the process. Be sure you tell the installer to duplicate the factory seams in the vinyl. I think a vinyl top works well with some colors and not so well with others. just depends.
Jason- Is that a replacement top or the original? If its a replacement, the grain looks spot on. As it stands now, the front and rear glass is definitely coming out. I fee bad taking the original top off, but it's got to come off to fix the car properly.
My vinyl does have texture. It looks like the standard vinyl I've seen on most GM cars of the period. I know I have seen that plastic strip down in the channel. That filler panel was the biggest pain to get off on my car. I think the rear window must have been replaced at one time judging by the over abundance of window sealer that was covering screw heads and glued the top edge in place. A very sloppy job. Even portions of the window trim where trapped in that crap. :rant:
I called SMS Auto Fabrics today to get some info. Very helpful people. The woman onm the phone said itr was a "Levant" grain and the factory called for a single layer top- no fuzzy material on the back. Which is exactly what I have on there. The material is very thin. She is going to send me a sample. The price was $295 and itr would take three weeks to ship out. I took a couple pics of the original material. I guess the term "not textured" doesnt quite describe it. See how the material dont have a deep set grain? Defnitely different than the 70 GS. The grain is very light and flat even under the emblem. Hopefully, the sample comes looking like this. I have to get ahold of the Fisher body manual and check out those plastic clips.
The texture shown in those photos does look like the same texture as mine. :kodak: I would have never thought it differed from what is on an A-Body. I suppose if you see them side by side it is more noticeable. It all has looked to be the same to me over the years. I wonder why the quote you got was $30.00 less then what they quoted me in March '08? :idea2: I have samples of a Dark Brown (too light though) and Black.
I took a closer look at that roof rail trim. I always thought it was attached to the weatherstrip channel somehow but its not. Its just stainless thats attached to a body colored rain gutter similar to the A bodies. The only difference being that the Riv roof rail stainless is a "L" shape with crimps on each end. Its one of those pieces of trim that will destroy itself if removed. And Im sure to do that. So we'll leave it on and see what the body guy and the trim guy say. I remember when I had a top put on the 69, the guy used a putty knife to push the material in there. Once he had it in, he trimmed it with a razor blade. So if you look in the rain gutter of the 69, the material makes a "U" shape. Correct? Probably not, but the top has been on and looking good for 20 some odd years. Im so worried about this, I have half a mind to trailer the car to Duane. Or fly him out here for a day or two. :laugh: I have a spare room. He can sleep with all the parts to the car.
The drip rail stainless, once it is removed (and that's the easy part) is a proper P-I-T-A to put back on, and get it aligned properly - especially when working with NEW paint ! If it doesn't hafta be removed, or replaced Jason, just leave it on ! :TU:
