'68 350 heads, what to do??

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by MDBuick68, Jan 23, 2015.

  1. MDBuick68

    MDBuick68 Silver Level contributor

    So for once in its life Im thinking of pulling the heads off of my 68 350 and would really like to have them freshened up.
    I know next to nothing about head work and would like to know any suggestions you may have on steps to take, what to purchase in advance, what parts can be reused, and any other helpful advice I could get before I get moving on it. I dont need anything major, just a nice rebuild with depending on cost.
    I also have a TA212 cam I would like to eventually swap in.
    Im the second owner since 95, and has about 160k on it and runs good.
    68 350 with 4bb stock
    TA 2.5" with Dynomax ultrflos
    Also, Im in portland Or, if anyone has a recommended shop

    Matt
     
  2. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Here is some info:

    www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?2685...h-and-cam-swap&highlight=Head+porting+project

    I have to say i would be a little bit hessitant to mess with a good thing... If your engine runs good i would just do the timing set and cam swap.... If i removed the heads and rebuilt them i would pay for head porting as well....

    Keep in mind that soon ta will have alum heads out that will out perform even well ported iron heads, and not cost too much more really after you pay a pro to port iron and rebuild them with larger valves.
     
  3. MDBuick68

    MDBuick68 Silver Level contributor

    Thanks Sean,
    sorry I meant to mention I do have a concern with how it runs which led me to thinking maybe its a good time for head work anyways, it runs pretty good as is but it could be better and I believe something is going on in the passenger head but not sure. i posted a thread a few months back when i noticed the sound change and slight power loss...
    The short explanation is I noticed my right bank making an odd metallic slap/tapping sorta sound out of the right exhaust. cannot hear anything at the head itself, but definitely out of the tail pipe. and noticed a loss of power associated with it. Ive checked all the basics, plugs, wires, distributor, carb, etc. the only thing I havent been able to do is a leakdown test (which i know will tell a lot lol)
    all of the info is here, but just scroll down to the last post and watch the video i posted of the sound at the right exhaust. Ive known my car for 19yrs now and KNOW this sound isnt right, what do you think??
    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?284413-Something-s-going-on-with-my-left-bank-exhaust
     
  4. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    if your hearing it out exhaust its a misfire or compression issue. you need to do a compression test and leak down test. could be cam lobe going flat or rocker problem. pulling valvecovers and running engine to see if anything looks wrong.pull plugs and see if anything is wet or black/burned.
    I would change valve springs with any cam change with 40 plus year old springs.
    are you using any zzdp additive or quality oil for non roller engines? my suggestion is rebuild heads with new springs,inspect rockers well,change cam and make sure you have correct lifters for 68 engines. shaving .020 to bump compression wont hurt. go .045 if you are not using the factory steel shim head gaskets.check ignition system,recurve distributer and check shaft bearings and the lobes points ride on for wear.possibly goto electronic conversion in your stock distributer or replacement. a good rebuild will be 300-500 depending on what is needed. valve guides,springs. no reason to get hardened seats unless they are badly damaged,and only do the damaged ones as they can cause other problems specific to buick 350 heads.and even that can be avoided in some cases with the larger valves TA have as it puts seat out farther into unused material of head.
    along with cam I suggest jetting up carb 2 jets atleast as ethanol in fuels today leans out carb. changinging secondary rod hangers 1 letter up with help at full throttle.
     
  5. MDBuick68

    MDBuick68 Silver Level contributor

    Great reply thanks! Im taking notes!!
    -yes Ive pulled the covers and watched all the rockers and everything seems fine.. at least to my untrained eye i didnt notice anything odd.
    -no I havent used any additives, Just kept the oil/filter changed regularly with Mobil1. should I? which is preferred?
    -no plugs look wet, although the rear plug looked slightly darker but not wet. very slightly.
    Ill get that compression test done this weekend and try to attempt a leakdown as well. Ive never done a leakdown test and dont have a tester for that.
    Thanks for the info on where to go with the heads. I have no clue what costs typically run but i have about a max budget of $800 or so. if I can get something in order for that I will be happy.
     
  6. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    something with extra zinc would protect cams better. stp blue bottle,cam break in additives have added zzpd, bradpenn oils. I would consider it .
     
  7. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    No one should "consider" adding ZZDP or using oil with it with an engine with a flat tappit cam, they should ABSOLUTELY be using it if they want the cam to live. I'm sure that's what Andy meant. GL



    Derek
     
  8. MDBuick68

    MDBuick68 Silver Level contributor

    Oops! Thats good to know. I've owned the car since 95 when it had 60k on it and drove it another 90k without adding anything to the oil. If my lack of knowledge has created more cam wear than usual then I'm glad its still the original one! Haha. I'll make sure I use the proper additive after this. Thank you for the sound advice. I'm re-doing my leaking aluminum intake on my 79 Eldorado today so I'm not sure if I will get to the tests on the Buick or not. Ill post back what I find when I do.
     
  9. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA


    Sounds like you may just have a worn cam with a couple lobes really worn. Before you remove the heads to spend $$ on a valve job make sure that the cam isn't the culprit making the valve train make noise. Unless you want that done?

    Maybe a good cam and lifter change is all you need? GL



    Derek
     
  10. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    I was thinking the same as Derek in the cam but at 150 k I thing guides will be worn. He does mention power being down some. But yes do tests to make sure. Should really do springs with cam. Can be done without removing heads. Springs are almost 50 years old.
     
  11. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    If you have 160k, on eng with no previous valve work, I'd think you have an extremely good possibility of having pitting or burnt head seats and exhaust valves.

    My orig 350 sounded like yours and had 110k, on it. Heads needed everything freshened up.

    Those intake and exhaust valves need to seat and seal. Guides are possibly shot also.
     

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