My timing chain (gear actually) went bad and I was thinking of replacing the cam/lifters also while i have the chance, Ive never done a cam before so i was looking for some helpfull hints and recomendations on which chain set, cam & lifters would be best for my set up. So far i have gotten the chain and gears out... gear was pretty beat up... but thats as far as i got. Im looking for a good chain set and a mild cam. My car is a stock 68 350, 4bbl, dual exh, th350, 150k, 2nd owner, ran great until the gear problem, Im going to get a chain set as soon as i know what i should get. would it be ok to just get cam & lifters? or is it time for more valve train. if i had the money i would just build the whole motor, but thats way outta my graspray: Im just looking for somthing a step or two above stock to get a bit more "get-up":3gears: . What do you guys think? and what are the critical steps in cam replacement? its been sittin in the garage for months and SUMMERS ALMOST HERE!! aghh!!!!! thanks everyone!
if possible I'd put in new cam bearings, but that may not be realistic by the sounds of it due to the fact that you'd have to remove the motor. If you do (recomended) then use the TA grooved bearings. Sounds like you'd like the TA 212 cam or similar. It is hotter than stock but works with all the stock parts. I have had good luck with this cam in a stock runner using the original cam bearings.
question- sean is the ta 212 cam much better than stock if i dont anticipate rpm much over 4500. i wont be racing the car. just using it as a cruiser. any and all comments appreciated. :beers2: ralph
I use Crower cams in my 350's. The level 2 hyd. makes tons of torque, plenty of vacuum, and idles like a stock cam. Valve to piston clearance is fine, but you should always confirm with your combo. It will work with new stock spings as well.
The stock cams were very poor and the 212 pulls hard from 1100-5500 rpm. It is noticable over stock. TA 212 Excellent performance cam. Gives 25 HP increase over stock cam. Substantial improvement in power without hurting fuel economy. Stock valve train, converter and gears are ok. Good Idle. Back To Chart If you are looking for the most low end torque then use a RV cam: TA RV12 Excellent stock type replacement cam which gives an average power gain of 10 HP over stock. No other special parts required. Smooth idle. Back To Chart
I have a very nice used TA 212 and matched lifters......... just sitting here. :Brow: Also have a newer (used) set of TA HD rocker arms and shaft assemblies ...... the steel ones......
The cam and lifters have about 5,000 miles on them. All the lifters look nice and flat with nice circular marks on the bottom.....were spinning good and wearing even. The cam you could drop right in, but the lifters would require you ( I think) to change to the 70 and up pushrods and rockers, as they are oiled through the pushrods, pre 70 are not. I am sure there has been a thread on the conversion on here before. I do have "some" pushrods...... not a full set though, since I bent a few with the latest cam before I pulled them.
thank for the cam reply guys, i might look for the parts this weekend. Would a double roller set be ok? i faintly remember reading about someone modifying the fuel pump a bit. like shifting it over slightly for clearance... does this sound right? I heard good things about the TA 212, plus i been eye ballin it in my catalog:grin: But im curious about the Crower cam, Where would i look for one of those Steve? and Mike... what kinda deal are you lookin for on the used cam? i dont want to switch over to "oil through pushrods" though, can i just get a set of lifters that directly replaces my 68's? Also what are the steps to replacing the cam? I just want to make sure i dont miss a critical step ya kno. thanks
If you have alot of miles on the block, you would definitely want to put new cam bearings in....... which you will have to have a special tool for, and somebody that knows what they are doing. TA cam bearings require a little attention to get in right. Not putting new bearing in would be taking a chance. You can use the 68 lifters on the cam. If you really want the cam, if you want to pay for shipping and a few bucks that would be ok.
hey mike, i would be interested in ur camshaft as well. shipping to 78415 and some cash sounds good. please let me know if no other one takes it. thanx ralph:beer
does anyone have any other ideas on what i might want to take care of since i got this apart up front? getting timing set, got a water pump, bolt set, still need the Seal & gasket set. anything else i should look into? anything i should have done to the distributor, front cover, etc?
I would replace the oil pump while you are there, and it would be a good addition to add the TA oil booster plate with a regulator.
Matthew, You should have something sitting on your doorstep by the end of the week. I sent it out today via USPS. :3gears:
I would get some new rings. Any near 40 year old rings are very brittle and have no tension. I don't see the sense in creating more cylinder pressure if it will only leak past the rings. I'd send the engine in for a honing. The finish depends on the rings used. Ray
Change the rear main seal and use the TA neoprene front seal as well. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=119601&highlight=rear+seal
:beer I Appreciate it Mike! i'll keep an eye out for it. thanks for the reply guys, it really helps. sometimes i get anxious and want to button it all back up so i can pull it out of the garage again. But i kno i have more work to take care of and now is the time to do it. im trying to be patient. ray: one day at a time.:Brow: i'll keep ya posted. Whats the best way for me to clean the front cover? and should i paint it? red like my motor or should it be like an aluminum color?
i like the alum color myself while you have the front cover off you could drill out the passages to 1/2 in on the cover
i say keep the aluminum colour also... ALSO you oculd get a new front cover which the main seal installs from the FRONT, so no more removing the cover to install a new seal wes
