Just good and tight. Not breaking or stripping threads tight. Dont forget to put the trans fill tube inplace before you call it done.
Is there a difference in installed length, not width like 12" or 13", with ST300 and ST400 torque converters? I have a terrible sense that mine isn't spinning and I'm sure I installed it correctly all the way until it engaged the pump It sort of feels like the engine and trans are crushed together. There is no space between the torque converter and flexplate
The converter is not seated correctly. Besides the pump tangs, there are two sets of splines that have to be engaged. Hate to tell you, but it has to come apart.
When the converter is fully seated, the mounting surface is at least 1” behind the bellhousing surface. http://www.tciauto.com/tc/auto-trans-faq#5
All you have to do is loosen all the bellhousing bolts and back the transmission back a bit so the converter spins fairly freely. Then you should be able to spin the converter and fuss with it until it drops back one more time. Normally the converter mounts will sit back about 1" from the front of the bellhousing. My quick reference is that from the bottom of the transmission your fingers will not really be able to get between the converter and the transmission housing with a typical 12" unit and they won't be even close with a 13" unit(unless you have very skinny fingers). If they go in easy you're not back far enough.
Correct. The engine can stay attached you just need to provide some clearance. If you used the cut off bolts like suggested all you have to do is slide the engine forward or the trans. rearward to get some space between the converter & flex plate. Then you can turn the converter & wiggle at the same time to get the converter to slip into the splines of the front trans. shaft. DO NOT TRY TO TIGHTEN DOWN THE TRANS. BOLTS WITHOUT THE NEC. CLEARANCES. You will end up wiping out the thrust bearing in the engine or worse. As a 1st. timer doing this I know it gets frustrating. Just take your time as you've been doing & ask questions. That's what most of us are here for. TO HELP. Wished I lived closer. Tom T.
Excerpts from a few of my posts... Do yerself a favor now that your swapping stuff. Pull the flex plate off (inspect it too???) and make sure all the converter holes line up before you hafta do it blind underneath. N'cest se pas? Likewise with the 3 bolts. Are they correct for the SP converter/13" job?? Doesnt the shop manual actually show the trans in a overhaul fixture holding it upright to engage the pump and splines?? ws As a word to the wise; Id also change the front trans seal while the motor is out. $5.00 now is money well spent later! I know you inspected the freeze plugs along the block and behind the flexplate too right? Make sure the torque converter is seated ALL THE WAY BACK and engaged before lifting and forcing it into position. The pump, stator and outer shell splines ALL need to be engaged proppa. You can tie a coat hanger across the face so it doesnt slide forward. Remove it before you get too far onto the dowels.
If it was a non switch-pitch converter it never would have gone back far enough as you found out. A quick test to confirm a switch-pitch converter is to stick your index finger in the converter. If you can touch the spines it is a standard converter. If you can't touch the splines then it is a SP. I can touch a standard converter splines easily but I really have to squash the webbing between my thumb and index finger to do so on a SP and even then just barely. Finger lengths vary but just about any normal sized hand would be able to touch the standard converter splines. You are putting a quart of trans fluid in the converter before you install it? Your 13" unit should be ok unless you somehow drained it completely. Is there a rush to get this thing back together particularly at this time of year? The converter change was going to be a noticeable difference in performance. I have to confirm but I may have one that I'd let go if we can come to terms. I'd know in two hours or so.
Is there any damage that could have resulted from the engine and trans being crushed together, specifically to the main bearings? I know I bent the flexplate, so I'll be using my backup...
Bearings should be OK, since you did not try and run the engine. The only one that could be damaged, would be the rear of the thrust bearing (#3), but not likely. I would have concern about the front pump though.
Ok thank you. The front pump rotates the same way that it did before, it doesn't feel like it is binding or any scoring within the housing. I inspected it and both it and the seal seem fine. I'm hoping the flexplate took one for the team and that is it I also never heard any ugly noises, so once again that is good. Ugly noises-->bad
