Very cool and I'm glad you were able to make such good passes. I agree with you and think you'll definitely be in the 13's this season
John it was great meeting you and I enjoyed hearing about how you got your car to where it is today. You will definitely spend the rest of the season in the 13s, all the pieces are there. You earned that timeslip with all the work you have put in. I lucked my way to a 14.08, if it wasn't for you encouraging me to go, I wouldn't have made a pass at all haha.
There you go! With the street tires get the shift right and some luck off the line and 13's are right there with MPH about 100. Were you only using low stall for off the line on all runs? Anyway you look at it some good traction tires, high stall off the line, and getting the shift down means easy 13's even on a poor weather day. What were you shifting at 1-2? What was going on with the missed shifts? Are you using a column shifter? IMO all the street test runs anybody makes barely counts once you hit the strip. It is a whole 'nother world at the starting line. Start saving for some tires and wheels unless you picked some up today.
Glad to hear all your hard work is paying off John. Put a B&M ratchet/slap shifter in it, it will make shifting a breeze! I got one in my Riv and it's fun to use.
Yeeh! My first post I looked at on my morning log on.. I was off by .10 as I had said 13.97 a way's back..
YouTube videos will be up shortly, my brother is the best, but he filmed vertically. Still love him though
Question for everyone out there. What should my 1-2 and 2-3 WOT shifts be for this engine? What would be considered fine and adequate or what should I shoot for?
The mileage report. To Lebanon: 15 mpg Back home: 18.75 mpg (went strictly highway) I suppose once you get it moving that’s all it needs.
The MAIN thing your trying to accomplish is to keep the engine from going below it's peak torque potential when shifting to the next gear. An engine/car is ALWAYS fastest going between it's peak torque & HP. Why you see some race cars with 4-5-6 speed trans. They have a very narrow torque/HP band. Race cars that weigh 2800 lbs. or less can get away with a 2 spd. trans. because your NOT moving the weight. On our Buick's most times we have a pretty wide Torque/HP band. Unless it's a true race car only. IOW on a stock engine 2800 is peak torque & 4400 is peak HP. When shifting to the next gear you want to try & keep at or slightly above 2800 into next gear. Unfortunately you don't know that unless you do some dyno testing. Otherwise it's just a guess??? Now that it's been "Customized" you don't know & ALL the playing in the world won't tell you that & mostly by that time it's time for a rebuild & you start ALL OVER AGAIN. A dyno is just another tool in the toolbox like a screwdriver, wrench, pliers, etc. JMHO Tom T.
It was good to meet you Sunday John. I'm not sure what you have for rims but you were talking about the skinny 235s. 2 wheel drive chevy trucks and vans are a 5x5 pattern. You should be able to buy a set 15x7 set cheap at the yard to open up your tire options. Make sure the center hole is the right size! I'd shift no higher than 5200. You may be leaving a little power on the table but the 430 will live a long happy life there.
Great to meet you too Joe, very interesting car as well. Got some weird news for everyone today, but it totally makes sense. In high stall, it was shifting 5000 1-2 and 5200 2-3. In low stall, it is shifting at 4800 1-2 and 4300 2-3. Guess I have some work to do. I could feel the cam really start to come on and then it shifted...
In high stall it's shifting a little low & in high stall it will lose MPH because of the slippage. Since you are only using high stall initially & going to low stall around 100 ft. or so you need to work on the low stall RPM's. When the cam started to come on was it in high or low stall. IF it was in low stall that would explain why the cam started to come on. With a cam change to something "Hotter" than stock usually the peak torque & HP curve has changed to a higher RPM.
