Can I ask a silly stupid question......what springs step you using in your mechanical advance..........if very light it is possable your getting some mechanical while cranking..........it can be very hard to determine true base timing settings sometimes especially when we dont know at what speed the mechanical starts to come in.... so we often skip that and go right for a total setting as its normally much more important than the initial setting any ways.........until something like the starter brakes. The only way I have found to determine true base timing is the get the advance totally out of the picture........either use very stiff springs or cut metal strips to replace springs. With light springs you could be getting several degrees of mechanical advance dow low and think is actually base timing. Most distributors have about 20 degrees mechanical in then.......and it's not uncommon for them to actually gain s few more above 4000 rpm All this uncontrollable movement is another reason I have really began to favor locked out systems
This is a good point, but cranking is at such a low speed, lower than 250 rpm, that I would see the increased timing at idle, since idle is around 750-800. For that reason I'd think that all timing is accounted for. I also did modify my distributor to only provide 14* mechanical, and verified it.
A valid point, but there are ALOT of Buick distributors that have way more than 20*. 20* is actually pretty optimal. It wasn't unusual to see 30-34* of mechanical in the early distributors. http://v8buick.com/index.php?thread...specs-1965-66-66-67-68-69-70-71-72-74.329332/ The 71-72 distributors had as little as 12*. If you use stock springs and idle the engine down as low as it can go without stalling, you can usually set base timing accurately.
Found this while looking today too, it's the smaller pg260 body like the lt1, it's new with bolts and lifetime warranty https://m.autozone.com/batteries-st...old-new-starter-3631n-pg/389621_833393_0?aqs=
First, my apologizes to John and all for drifting this thread. (again) I was going to message this to Larry. Since I put bad info out here, I did not want it to go without correction. And, I wanted to express my appreciation to Larry's correction publicly. Hi Larry, I did not want to clutter John's thread anymore than I already have. After you posted, I figured I would mock up the starter and verify fit. You are correct, and I was wrong about the bolts. I saw your thread a while back, about the mini you used before getting Rob's starter, and I mis-read the part about the bolts, thought maybe the bolts that were currently being made now for OEM style starters were not longer correct, and that what you showed were correct. https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/starter-motor-bolts.349788/#post-2978792 Than I also ran across Schurkey's post on starters and bolts and further got it into my head that i needed the bolts I ordered. http://v8buick.com/index.php?thread...ck-engines-knurl-warning.308737/#post-2565864 After you replied yesterday, I went and checked the bolts, and the block and realized the knurled end at the threads needs to get purchase in the counter-bore in the beginning of the block, (similar to how a shoulder bolt functions). I thought the bolt only took up the tolerances in the starter housing. Once I realized that, I saw the bolts I had would not work (not long enough either). Went and bought the "Dorman" 45640 set of three. (long, medium, short OEM spec), put the starter on the block, checked the pinion spacing and lash and torqued it all down. So, once again, thanks for your knowledge and setting me straight. (I was going to wait and do the starter after I put the engine in, but glad I did not get to that point and find out all of that the hard way.) My assumptions let one of my brains, convince my other brains, it knew what it was thinking was correct. Now, back to John getting towards 11 territory. -Michael
John. I know our engines are different. At the time with the GS113A installed straight up. Using Larry's distributor recommendations. Set it up, Mechanical all in at 2,000 RPM @ 34*. Then for the Vaccum advance installed the limit plate to 10*. Started great, hot or cold. Great throttle response. The distributor is a 71 points distributor, with a Crane XRI module , points eliminated. With my newer engine with the TA413 degreed cam, I'm running the same distributor, same set up, same timing, never a problem. As for the starter, Running a mini starter from TA. As per some member recommendations. Really a good part. I seen lots of broken starter nose cones over my time. Here the parts guys hate the dirt track guys. After bringing back about 5 broke starters, they give their money back and send them somwhere else.. keep on trucking.
My buick chassis book from TA with color wiring diagram dosent have power windows either. It also dosent have blower motor relay just the resistor.
Usually you need to move the window all the way up or down. Then un screw the track from the door. Unless your taljing about the main one that curves at the bottom. That one you loosen 2, 7/16 wrench bolts so you can move it out ward a little. Then enter track from the top. Its a pain. Usually have to support the window with screw driver.
Ive disected my power windows many times. Its always fun when you put it all together and one of your windows flys down and is real slow going up. Then you realise the spring on the regulator is now in backwards.
Hey just checking in. Do you have any schematics that you could send me? The window mechanism appears to be the same over the years.
Hey john I'm pretty sure our cars are "E" body or style cars so here's what I found in the'69 fisher body manual. Hopefully it helps? If what I posted isn't what you need and you can determine what "style" your doors are off the index page I'll look it up and send you the corresponding info.
Back home for spring break. One final push to get the car ready for my schools show in April and then the UConn show in CT before final exams. In this picture you’ll see part 1 of the problem. This bolt/thing has left the hole on this part of the swing arm. The hole is in the center of that arm and it connects to the window track at the front of the door to guide the window down. Part 2 is that the window motor spins freely and contacts no particular part of the gear, which leads me to believe the gear is missing teeth. Where can I find this small broken off piece? And where could I order a new gear?
In other news, I’ve driven it about 50 miles over the past two days, maybe more. Almost sorted out the downshift. The upshift: 1-2 happens at 5200 and 2-3 happens at 5200. That sounds like room to grow. Probably bring it to 5500 for both, but I know this cam would love to go to 6000. I will be on the phone tomorrow with a shop about the power window, I may have to wave the white flag on this one. The only thing done by a shop on this car that wasn’t to fix parts...
Is the transmission stripped out in motor? Grab it with pliers and give it power.. it might just make you a man.
