I have a line on a pair of 67 430 heads that have casting number 1372963, as I understand it these are "big port" 430 heads. I've managed to whittle the guy down to $150 and an old set of rims I don't need in exchange for the heads. The owner claims that the guy he got the 430 from had them taken to machine shop to be checked for cracks. The heads have had the valves removed and probably not marked as to which goes where. Do you guys think it's worth it? I know I'd probably have to have them cleaned and magnafluxed at a bare minimum, most likely a valve job also. Will these really be that much better than stock 76 455 heads I have? My engine build is very budget oriented so I wouldn't bother with anything more than is necessary to run them. New springs probably, re-use my 455 rocker assemblies.
It depends on what block with which you're planning to mate the heads. I have 2 sets of the big-port heads: one set with the A.I.R. plumbing in place, rebuilt with new valves/guides/seats, and one set without the A.I.R. channels opened which I'm keeping as future project material. These heads will need the aluminum rockers/solid push rods from 67 in place in order to work properly, and the oiling passages to the head must be intact. These heads flow much better than the 76 heads with all that emissions hardware, especially if you have the matching exhaust manifolds or headers.
I would be using these heads on my stock 1976 455 block, using stock rotating assembly and possibly the stock camshaft. I do have a pair of shorty headers I was going to use that came on my engine. I was under the impression that I could reuse my 455 oil-through-pushrod system with these old heads and just block a passage on the deck? Is that untrue?
I have 1967 430 heads on my 455. I had to use adj. pushrods to get proper length because of geometry, decking the block to get the pistons to near 0 deck. You can get one adj. pushrod, measure the proper length and get custom sized pushrods.
Good tip, thanks! I don't plan on decking the block, maybe the heads if they really need it. Also I'll be running composite head gaskets which I believe are .040" thick so if anything my pushrods would be slightly "looser" compared to running oem steel shim head gaskets?
Any of these heads are a gamble as they have known cracking problems. I don't know the seller but I also don't trust the seller. People can say anything to collect the money. Is it worth it to you to drop the cash and wheels and come up with some boat anchors? Or on the upside it could be a good set of heads and you do the fancy pushrods and such. Silly as I sounds this is the way I am headed. I got the heads off a car at the wrecking yard a long time ago, like early nineties. I wish id have known to get the exhaust manifolds too. I'm planning the one adjustable and getting the custom set made for the 430 rockers and 455 lifters. Lots of plans little action for me. I keep dreaming.
Definitely better the 76 open chamber heads, they flow marginally better on the intake side, nothing to write home about, but they do, you gain more from theuch smaller chamber and the bump in Compression it will bring, and yes block the passage in driver deck and run the 70+ oil setup, and yes put a fresh cut on original heads .005 to .008, more if needed obviously
How much to get them magnafluxed? I'd tell him that they need to go to your shop to get that done. Then if they pass he gets his money. This way your only out the cost of the mangafluxing. He should be agreeable to that if he's being honest about the heads. Because the chance that you'll be able to just see a problem like that are next to zero.
I wish I could do that but I don't really know any decent shops to begin with and he's like 2 hours each way from me, so it's almost worth it just to take the risk so I won't have wasted the drive out there. He's also offering me all of the parts from the 430 . . . timing cover, oil pan, crank, etc . . . as part of the deal. I feel like at that price I may as well take a shot. Might end up with a few decent parts even if the heads turn out to be trash? Here are some pics he sent me:
Get the rocker arms and shafts to use, or at least I would unless you plan on some fancy ones. So you get all that pictured for the arranged asking of $150 and the no use to you wheels? I'd be in just for the road trip. I cant think of a better reason to go for a drive.
I have heard the answer is no, not really. I'll defer to the group, but I understand that if any port matching is done to a 455 head, you've duplicated the 430 port advantage already and with a much stronger casting..
The block has had lots of machining done already, be careful and measure things. The block casting flash is gone, as it has been ground off. Very likely a worn out block I would think.
Well I did it and took a chance! I got the following: -Heads -Valves (rusty) -Valve Springs -Timing cover with water pump and bolts rusted to it -Pushrods -Rocker Assemblies -Alternator bracket upper and lower (AC) -Harmonic Balancer -Water pump and crank pulleys -Bottom half of air cleaner -Flexplate -One 430 valve cover with 430-4 sticker -Oil Pan (center sump) -Windage tray -1/2" oil pickup -Stock points distributor -Smog pump with brackets (AIR), not sure if it was from this motor I did not take the block or the crankshaft or the camshaft. The crankshaft had a ton of visible scoring, the cam was rusted as hell, and I already have a 455 and 350 sitting in my garage with not much space for a third block, so I left the 430 block. It looked pretty rusty and beat up, with rust in the bores. I also couldn't fit it into my Passat haha. There were some other odds and ends in there but I haven't unpacked it yet. I think worse case scenario I can sell some of the parts if the heads turn out to be unusable. My plan is to get them cleaned and magna-fluxed with my next paycheck. Maybe get a quote on a valve job if they are ok. I'll post some pictures when I unload it all tomorrow!
I've heard that cracking is not likely on the big-port heads unless you plan to run a radical cam with high spring pressure. It's the valve-guide & spring seat area where the cracks can occurr. In some cases, even if they heads do develop cracks there, it doesn't affect performance and the engine will still function just fine.
For a budget oriented build you’re off to a great start. ‘76 bottom end had better pistons (less dish) to sorta compensate for the crappy heads, plus it’s a high nickel block with better oiling (vs. ‘70). I’m running a stock ‘76 bottom end with ‘71 heads, a very mild cam and well sorted distributor and qjet. Probably 9:1 compression, maybe 9.5. Manifolds and 2.93s. It drives so nicely, idles at 650, and will set the street tires ablaze at will. It’s not a quick car; high 13s, but drives so nice and has been together for several years trouble free. Patrick
That's great to hear! This is pretty much the type of car I'm after myself. A nice cruiser that I can eat Hondas with. I really wish I had the budget to make my Skylark capable of spanking my friend's 5th gen Camaro SS. He's always going on about the magnetic ride control and blah blah blah. But alas. I've been looking at going with the TA 212 cam for good street torque but I may stick with the stock cam I pulled out if budget gets really tight. I marked the lifters so I can reassemble properly in need be. Will most likely go with a TSP convertor of 2800 or so, 3.08 rear gears with stock GM posi for now. As I understand it, the 76 pistons smaller dish is offset by the reduced compression height, as per the info in this thread: http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/piston-cc-73-76-and-2362p.102066/ So it looks like the heads will be the only thing adding compression. At least they are closed chamber and apparently will flow about 5% more than regular early heads. Since it's a budget deal I'll be keeping the stock 76 pistons most likely, hopefully adding new cast rings. The bores on my block still show crosshatching so I'm hoping I can get away without an overbore . . .
