66GS with nail fuel line clearance

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by Skezix, Nov 15, 2018.

  1. Skezix

    Skezix Well-Known Member

    For those with the 66GS this fuel line clearance has me stressed a bit. I ordered a replacement from inline as far as fuel line goes, appears to be just like factory as far as bends etc. As I mock this thing up with my block in place my question is up by the exhaust manifold where it jumps out of the frame goes up and over the front cross member.. It might as well be touching the exhaust manifold there as the clearance is lil to none. I thought about putting a hole through the cross member so it could run through it and out the front hole (my chevelles run like this). Or should just route it as orig? I know it obviously has ran fine for the last 50 years yet this is so close the protective sleeve just touches the exhaust manifold. I am running ahead of things as I am at a stopper money wise currently so trying to get a few of those little pains out of the way that I know I will be running into, this is one of them.

    Thanks for the input.
     
  2. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    Can you post a picture? :)
     
  3. Skezix

    Skezix Well-Known Member

    Clearance is just tight.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. GS Spoken Here

    GS Spoken Here Well-Known Member

    The fuel ling should go inside the frame horn, not above.
     
  5. Skezix

    Skezix Well-Known Member

    Thats what I thought as my chevelles are the same way but this one was routed like this orig. Went into the frame and came out this side hole and up and over the cross member. There is a hole in the front of my cross member but not the rear like on my chevelles. This struck me odd. Yet there is no place for it to exit if it stays in the horn till the very front.

    What you are looking at is where it exits the frame and jumps over the cross member.
     
  6. Skezix

    Skezix Well-Known Member

    Only other way I thought it could be ran is to drop under the front cross member and jump up inside it and come out the front? Yet if that was the case this is not long enough to achieve that goal.
     
  7. GS Spoken Here

    GS Spoken Here Well-Known Member

    Have a good picture of the fuel line as it enters the frame, but not a good one of the exit up front.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Skezix

    Skezix Well-Known Member

    Ya that is mine exactly yet this one when I took it apart jump out the frame and went up over the cross member. I found it odd. Yet based on what you are saying leave it in the frame past the spring pocket and out the front cross member.
     
  9. GS Spoken Here

    GS Spoken Here Well-Known Member

    As I remember it was hard to get it through the frame. I should have done it before I put the front spring in.
     
  10. Skezix

    Skezix Well-Known Member

    Makes me think this "orig" one was replaced then as it did not run like the typical Abody. Ya they are a pain and yes much easier with it removed... I should have paid more attention to it not being ran correctly. Yet it looked very orig, well for its age anyhow. Thank you for the info and letting me pick your brain.
     
  11. Skezix

    Skezix Well-Known Member

    Ok, remedied.. And... my other memory says she recalls it perfectly. I came in bitching about people re-routing fuel lines and boiling the gas to vlock and now I remember having to explain that to her.. So apparently this morning I thought it was orig but last year I knew it was not, I am losing it. Thanks again
     
  12. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    I replaced the fuel line on my '64, and though it runs down the driver's side, the routing should be mirrored on the GS.

    Mine enters the "oval" on the back side of the frame aft of the firewall and through the channel until the horn and exits out the round hole near the frame pad.

    Here is a pic of the passenger side where the GS line would run. Mine is on the driver's side (Skylark).

    upload_2018-11-15_22-34-10.png

    I pushed the line through and as far forward as I could, and then bowed the center along the mid section of the frame, to allow me to get the rear over the axel and up along the frame to the tank area.

    I replaced the 5/16 with 3/8 and it was actually not that hard with the rear end and torsion links installed.

    (engine and tranny were out, so no cross member)

    Hope that helps.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2018

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