Help, I need a new starter and bought a Tom Telesco mini-starter. Since I've replaced starters before I didn't think this would be a problem. I got under the car but it doesn't look like there is room to remove the starter due to the left exhaust manifold and the chassis I took the car to a mechanic friend who said that the manifold would have to be removed, and since he didn't have a lift passed on the job. He also didn't like the idea of possibly grinding away part of the boss above the freeze plug to allow clearance for the wires. If anybody has done this on a 65-66 GS please let me know what is involved. PS the factory service manual doesn't mention what is required to replace. Thanks
The manifold has to be removed and to remove the manifold you must disconnect the motor mount so you can jack up the engine. I just did Tom Kelly's 66 a few weeks ago so it is still fresh in my mind:blast: That is the worst part on the 401 to change.:ball: A lift and a set of torches makes the job much easier.
Yup. I could'nt believe it either! I disconnected the left motor mount through bolt, loosened the trans bolts, used a scissor jack against a block of wood on the left mount plate. It didnt have to go far to slide the manifold out. If you're lucky enough to not snap off the manifold bolts, put a light coat of never - seize on them for next time. Good luck, but should be able to it all in your garage. Frank
thanks Thanks guys I still can't beleive that replacing a starter is this big of a job.! Tom Telesco indicated that the job could be done without removing the manifold, if the motor mount is removed and you remove the solonoid and disassemble the starter. Due to the cold weather and an unheated garage, and an old guy doing the job I'm going to take to a shop with a lift. I know it won't be cheap due to the involved process.
MaineBuick, I know putting the new starter on is easy, but getting the old starter off is a bear. There is very limited clearance and the starter is very large.
can anyone tell me what wires go to which poles on the starter, I'm lost. The car wants to start, but as soon as I leave off the ignition switch it stops. I have to have some of the starter wires wrongo No: Ron 66 GS- 401 nailhead
It's done thanks for all of the advice. I took the car to a shop with a lift and had a mechanic replace the starter. I assisted him and it still took over 1 1/2 hours. He couldn't beleive that he had to remove the motor mount, jack up the engine and remove the exhaust manifold. The car starts much easier now, and the Tom Telesco starter is very easy to install. Tom is very helpful and knows his Nailheads. Steve
Ron, the best advice I can give is to get a shop manual, It details the starting circuit wiring. Steve
Wow, so I wonder how this will work with headers! I may have to remove the header outright I bet? It took two hours to remove the two starter bolts but it doesn't come out far enough like you all stated above. I don't know if there is enough room there for the starter to drop... wow bigger job than I thought! uzzled: Tom
Tom, remove the solenoid from the starter body to make the unit smaller. Remove the engine mount bolts and jack the engine up a little. Loosen the header, and you should be able to slip it out when everything is just right.
This is exactly why I have a firm rule... if a starter comes out it gets completely rebuilt before it goes back.....:Brow: :laugh: and I keep a couple of those laminated wiring diagram cards that you get on line, handy.... worth every penny spent to buy them....specially when you are a electrical dummy like me....:rant: BTW anti-seize compound is definitly your friend in this situation....
I can't resist rubbing salt in an open wound - in my Buchev pickup, I did install one of Tom's mini starters, but for weight savings only. There is so much room around the starter that I can lie under the truck on a creeper and pull the starter in less then five minutes. Bear in mind that an '82 C-10 ,was designed for a right hand side starter. I couldn't believe it when I did the engine installation. Once in a while you luck out! :grin:
Wow... what genius designed this? :bla: A couple hours into it and I was staring at most likely removing the motor mount bolts and trying the "jack up the motor trick" when my neighbor came by and looked and said "Why don't we try taking the starter apart" well first came the two long bolts, then the cover, the inside fell out next, then the solenoid and the next thing you know it was all sitting on the ground in parts but not attached to the motor anymore. Now a mini starter to go back in and I should be back on the road! Thanks for your help guys! I am sure every instance is different but taking all of the individual components apart sure helped me! (& a pry bar that is!) Tom
Heh heh; nothing like waiting 16 months to bump a thread that was already ten-plus years old last time. It's worth it, though, if it helps someone. I bought my '66 in Nov '78 with just under 112K and did a major O/H in Spring/Summer '79. The odo is now at 53K for the fifth time (changed the chewed-up 2.93 (41/14) to 2.78 (39/14) with the O/H, and the correction puts me at just about 460K) and I've done starters five times---without touching the mount/s. The length and shape of the exhaust manifold necessitate the starter and manifold both being loosened when either has to come out. Loosen the manifold and tie it to keep it in the area, or have a high-endurance assistant hold it while you maneuver the already-loosened starter out; that assistant can use his free hand to guide the start/ignition harness past the master cylinder and brake tube. I recommend this over trying to disconnect the wiring with the starter in the car, since poor shielding may well have allowed the harness to bake to where it needs repair or replacement anyway. On the other hand; if the manifold is what's being removed, it can be lifted out past the unbolted (and steadied by the person beneath the car) starter without disturbing the wiring. Stick the starter back in its hole and spin the lower bolt in a few turns, then go enjoy the manifold. ___________________________________________________ The car is currently down (actually, up) for a long-overdue valve-job that I couldn't find time for until the front of the right head gasket corroded the cylinder bead and made the car a steamship; I had been nursing a severed left-side mount for maybe ten years and had quite the experience, which I'll post about when I decide where. :beer Cheers, Nailheads! Gregg
