After slinging a P/S belt I had to make a hard turn to get off the road and damaged my rag joint. I have replaced it before but those 20 dollar parts store kits are junk. Opg lists complete steering box couplers for 67-72 models but not a 66. A ebay search shows a few but the pics and descriptions are not very helpful. What about the set-ups that appear to replace the rag joint with a small u joint? They list 30 and 36 spline on the steering box side and a few different shaft sizes. Could you just cut the end off the steering shaft side and Install a set up like that? An thoughts or Ideas or info on where to get a quality replacement coupler. Thanks Bill
The way I remember it the 65 and 66 GS cars have a column shaft without the lower flange being welded on. The rest of the 65 and 66 A body cars used a welded on flange on the end of the column. So they would be different in that way only. The rest of the parts would be the same, yes I am sure. The removable flange was used because the exhaust manifold was so close to the shaft on the GS cars, it makes the column easier to remove and install. Another note; tilt columns for 65 and 66 (possibly other years also, but 65 and 66 for sure) use the same setup on the rag joints, meaning the lower flange is not welded in place, it is removable. I think I have a NOS rag joint for the 66 GS, and a good clean used original one I could sell you. Email me direct for pics and prices, dadphelps@yahoo.com . But really just order a steering coupler from the Muscle Factory or National Parts Depot for the 66 Chevelle and use the needed parts. If they list one for a 66 Chevelle with tilt column it would be a direct bolt in. I do not do business with OPG so I do not recommend them, and I am not alone. Mike
Thanks for the info guys. I took a better look at it tonight and it jogged my memory. I remembered saying to myself when I installed the last rag joint that even though both ends were removable that when Installed the Joint was already under stress almost like the steering shaft was to short. You can move them back and forth a bit before you tighten them but only so much and still keep a good bite on the steering box spline and shaft . It looked like a wavy potato chip when installed. The safety post things just barely protrude into the end of the steering shaft side. Bill
The column can be "slid" down to get the flange adjusted to the proper location. The 2 bolts hold it to the bottom of the dash, loosen them up, they are long enough to allow the column to be very loose, then where it goes through the firewall it is held by a flange with a rubber ring/insert which will allow it to move. Careful to not move the rubber ring completely out of the flange, it can happen. Also don't make the mistake of loosing the bolt on the column shaft under the hood, this holds the lower, and upper, bearings in place, taking it loose will not get the column adjusted as you need, but can allow the bearings to fall out of position. Sliding the column to the proper position will make the rag joint rubber ring look normal. I have had good luck with replacing the rag joint rubber ring only, I have done a few and all have held up perfect. Good luck, Mike
Thank you! that sounds like a plan and I will check it out over the weekend. Even installed as a said it held up for 2 years so I am sure moving the column down a bit should take care of my problem. Bill
Thanks I picked up a parts store repair kit and after loosening the steering column bolts I was able to remove it much easier then last time. And after rebuilding it on the bench with the made in china parts store kit it went right in and works great. I have been at this for years but learn something new every time I work on my Buicks. It is great to have you all here when I need a hand. Bill
