I'm trying to install Inline Tube's dual-reservoir master cylinder conversion kit on my 1964 Skylark Sport Wagon with power drums. The lines provided -- from the new master cylinder to the new tee -- aren't even close to fitting, and I'm having trouble understanding how such lines would connect without running into the electronic components that are mounted on the inner fender (see picture). Perhaps these electronic components are mounted incorrectly? I wonder if they are the relays and such for the vintage four-way flashers ... which were non-factory. I'm going to call Inline Tube on Monday, but in the meantime, can anyone send me pics of a completed dual master cylinder conversion on a 64 Skylark, so I can see how the lines are bent at the master cylinder? Thanks! Greg Grass Lake, MI
I have a dual master cylinder in my 65 Special. If I'm not too busy tomorrow I'll take pictures. Do yourself a favor and paint your new master cylinder. If you don't it will be a rusty mess in 6 months. Eastwood sells cast iron colored paint that is resistant to brake fluid.
Thanks -- and thanks for the painting tip, too. Two questions: 1) Did you paint the inside of the master cylinder, too, or mask that off? 2) Did you bend the lines yourself? I ended moving the electronics that were in the way (it is the vintage four-way flasher relay), which gives me more room for the lines, but I still can't see how the Inline Tube pre-bent ones would work. I may end up bending my own. Greg
Quick update: I just ordered pre-bent lines from Right Stuff Detailing -- I went with a set from a power drum-drum 67 Skylark. They look perfect (at least online). Part numbers AMC6712 1-4 and AMC6712 3-8. I'll post and update after the install. Greg
I cleaned the exterior, with toluene, on the new m/c I installed a year ago. I then applied exterior clearcoat with a paint brush. worked for me.
Here's some pictures of my dual master cylinder conversion. The line that wet to the old master cylinder gets rotated 90 degrees to the side. The line to the rear gets disconnected from the four way brass fitting and that hole in the fitting gets plugged. The line to the rear gets a union and another line connected to it that goes to the rear master cylinder output. Hope this helps. Don't paint the inside. I mask it off at the outer edge of the gasket surface and plug the holes. I've had mixed results with clear coats. The clears that come in a spray can become porous and let moisture in after a while. If you use clear be sure it's a quality urethane clear with a hardener. My opinion, the cast iron color paint looks better.
Thanks again for all of your help. A quick update: The lines from Right Stuff Detailing were too long (not their fault, as they are for a 67), but they at least resembled the general shape that I needed, so I modified them a bit, trimmed, and had them re-flared. I painted the new master cylinder with the Eastwood brake paint, and while a little shiny compared to cast iron, it looks great. I'm having some trouble bleeding the brakes, but that's another story. And, the wheel cylinder I replaced is leaking once again, and this will the subject of another post. I'll try to post some pics soon. Greg
Bummer on the leaking new wheel cylinder. Even Rabestos is made in China now. Glad you're making progress.
Is your car drums all around? If you decided to change the fronts to disc later on, will the conversion work with that same master cylinder that you just put in or will you have to put in a new one (again)?
When got mine the application chart said it's the same master cylinder for disk/drum and drum/drum. With disk a proportioning valve gets added. When I put one on my Vette a few month ago, which is 4 wheel disk, manual brakes take a 1" bore and power assist has 1 1/8".
