I have a built 455 in my 64,no headers but its a animal.There are no major problems doing this swap,but a brake and Trans upgrade will be helpfull. Engine mounts,Radiator ect will be needed.Good Luck
Damn tap talk! Test fit,from what I understand 3 versions made by GSCA and originals by MT Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
I did it Gary. Tight to the steering shaft. Overall a good fit with 67 frame pads. I ran them until I went to the stage 2's. Now they are screwed to my garage wall!
Gary................give it a few years. I'll get mine done....Tomahawk and all...........and then decide to sell it!!! LOL Seems to be my pattern as of late! Just kidding, (Hopefully!!). I plan to hold onto this one for a while.............but you never know! LOL
Hahaha! I just need something with MT headers...I'll never drive it. I'll just sit in the driveway listening to it idle.
I'm putting a mildly worked over stage 1 455 into my 67 with the MT headers.. I think the frame is the same with the 64/65....
MT headers were designed for the 67 chassis, so they theoretically should fit better than 68-72 headers, and they do. I have used both, and the MT's required less dinging, but still required quite a bit near the steering shaft and control arms. The reality is it is unlikely a flow issue unless you're making big power. Once it's all bolted up, you may need to tweak collectors to fit into the crossmember cutout. I used stock 67 frame mounts but have heard that the TA mounts are a touch higher and may provide a bit of extra clearance. You'll need a 2 row aluminum radiator (Griffin 1 1/4" tubes), and if the motor is warmed over, use electric fans and a big alternator. You may have to redrill your crossmember bolt location on the frame rails. Otherwise it's a pretty easy swap in the grand scheme. Mine's been in since the eighties.
You can gain some clearance with the steering shaft by using a trick I discovered while changing my steering gear box years ago. I have not had to ding my MT headers at all. 1) Loosen the 3 bolts on the steering box and tilt the gear box up in the rear and tighten them down. It won't move much but it will lift the shaft with any slack you can manage. 2) Loosen the under dash bracket and the firewall clamp. 3) Move the column as far toward the center of the car as you can with the under dash saddle and as far out at the firewall clamp. That moves shaft away from the exhaust. 4) All of those will gain you at least 1/8" and maybe more than a 1/4" of clearance depending on your original configuration.
