Been having a low speed vibration for some time now, first I had a partially worn uni joint, now fixed. Been slowly working my way through others minor issues. Anyway over the weekend I went through the whole steering set up. Found the drivers side tie rod end ball nut that connects it to the spindle has about 1/8th inch play in it. I tightened up the nut but it's already below the cotter pin so it will back itself off again. My question, having never done one of these before, I assume I can just buy a replacement inner boot, like these below. these ones are from Rock auto. Looking at the chassis manual which doesn't explain at all any detail on the tie rod end, but looking at the car I assume they are not pressed in, rather they are torqued in. So I merely remove the nut, press out the ball joint (I don't have a press per se, but given it's torqued in I suspect it won't just fall out, it will need some convincing). Replace the boot inside the housing, re-install the ball joint, put nut back on and torque to specs, re-install cotter pin. I'm hoping that's right, as i can't find replacement tie rod ends for sales, so I am assuming the wear is the internal boot, which can be purchased and replaced per my above assumed process. If this isn't correct, can anyone guide me on the right approach to rid the issue. Thanks in advance for pointing me in the right direction. Couple of chassis manual pics
If the stud pulls up far enough to go past the cotter pin hole it usually means the loose stud over time has wallowed out the end of the spindle. You will at LEAST need a new tie-rod end so that the stud diameter at least starts out larger than your old end. More than likely the spindle is worn out & will need to be replaced. One way you can get around the worn spindle end is to wrap shim stock of BRASS around the tie rod stud & then torque into place. I DO have a '61 I could pull this stuff from that is good, but I would want the old stuff back before I pull it apart so I could move & steer the car when it's nec. to move. Tom T.
Thanks Tom, it's OK I've found Kanter make a replacement for $48, complete outer tie rod end I'll replace both sides while I'm at it. Thanks for the offer though
You may still end up with looseness at the arm where the joint connects. The stud is made of a hardened steel & the arm is made of cast iron. IF it is loose try the shim material method I mentioned. Just remember to torque it properly + maybe a little bit till the cotter pin hole lines up. Tom T.
Thanks Tom will do, easier to do that locally here in Oz than wait for replacements to come from US. I can do the shim method this weekend
