I was reading another thread here today about the 5/8" oil pickup tube and was wondering which years did the timing cover with the bigger galleries and the 5/8 tube for the 455 start and or come from???? Without seeing one in the flesh so as to speak, how can a timing cover with the bigger galleries be identified ?? apart from measuring the pickup orifice. Do they have casting #'s or any other ways to positivily identify them?? The reason I ask is I can get one from interstate here in Australia,but want to make sure of what I'm getting. Also,is using the later type of timing cover and larger pickup "as is" the way to go on my SF block, will the cover require further mods?? And lastly are those distributor gear oiler setups that go in the cover worth putting in while the cover is off??? o No:
Hi Guys, Actually the '70 Stage 1 only and then all the '71 and up 455's. Ruston....your SF block is a "standard", non-Stage '70 block so it will only have a 1/2" feed hole from the pick-up tube to the cover. Using a 5/8" pick-up tube without drilling out the block to match will help a little but IMHO you really should also drill the block out to 5/8" also to see the full benefit. Others may disagree.o No: I'm just one who is in favor of "over-building" whenever and wherever I can as I like the "cushion" of extra safety precautions.:TU: Hope this helps..
Thanks !! I'll drill out the block to match, but what about the cover? do I need to do anything else to that?? Do the covers have casting numbers,that will identify it as the '71 and later type? or do I go on the pick up orifice dia' only??? Some people will tell you what you want to hear to get a sale,so I want some way to know I am getting the real thing!!with out having to drive for two days to look at it,or to take it out of their hide for trying to rip me off!! I'm thinking if I can't get the right cover I might get a pick up from some one on here and drill out the cover I have already got. Any ideas about using the distributor gear oiler, are they worth putting in as well??
We go through every oil passage and port, smooth and match all faces and ports. We also port and blend passages in the oil filter housing(using a booster plate)..On our most recent block, we added a pressure gauge to the back of the passenger oil galley. We open up drain holes in the head and massage the block lifter valley for better oil return. Oil is our Achilles heel. visit Team Headless Chicken when you're in Maine
Since we're on the topic of oiling... Has anyone tried grooving the mains and drilling the extra oil holes yet? Staged70lark posted about this a while back. I've been thinking about the best way to go about modifying the oiling system on the 71 motor I have. I was thinking about opening up all passages wherever possible, doing the main bearing modification, using a high volume pump with thinner oil (10W-30). I know that most people here freak when they hear high volume pump, but I'm not so sure that it's a bad idea in all cases- especially when you are opening up the passages to supply the volume the pump can put out, and running the lighter weight oils. I think a lot of people forget that pressure doesn't necessarily mean flow. Wouldn't a high volume pump be more suitable (with the weaker relief spring) when the passages are opened up? Also, wouldn't it be beneficial to run a bypass line to feed both ends of the block? Just some things I have been considering.
Clark, I have done the porting you suggested but the holes for the bolts are so sloppy that you cannot be sure that everything lines up as intended. Any suggestions? Also the latest recomendations are to NOT do the oil line at the back of the block. The back of the block oil pressure line should be taken off of the drivers side.
Why would you want to take pressure off the driver's side? The main and rod bearings are oiled from the passenger side. Seems like that would be the side to check. Any thoughts?
Since were sort of on the topic, I found what looks like another oil pressure sending unit on the top/back passenger side of my 455 block. Is it a sending unit? I was going to run a "T" connector from the oil sending unit on the front side of the block so I could use my dummy light as well as my gauges. It's a 72 455 out of a GS. MARK
Doug, We use 1/4-20 studs to mount the oil filter cover. I suppose you could also use the small dowel pins that are used on the high-volume pump. this would require drilling into the front cover. Our view is that anything we can do to help oil flow is worth the effort. Team Headless Chicken 70 GS455 Race car (best 6.99 1/8th, 11.12 1/4(8 years ago) 71 GS 455 under restoration 69 Opel GT (future race car) 86 Regal t-type (project car)
My info was from a recent phone call with Erick racing. I am sure he said do not do the bypass line at the back of the block (usually a copper line between the two plugs.) I could have gotten it wrong about what side to take the oil pressure from. I also know that most of what I have seen has taken the pressure off of the passenger side. My problem with the booster plate is the holes are almost big enough for 5/16th bolt. I think pinning the plate might be a real good idea so the allignment is consistant. Mark sounds like a back of the block sending unit. Use that for your pressure gage and use the front for your idot light. Thanks for the replies.
Ruston, Do not do the oiler for the timing gear. All it does is bleed pressure off before oil even gets to the block.
If you take your pressure reading from the driver's side you would be getting the minimum pressure in your engine. This could be a good thing. If this pressure is good, then likely everywhere else is even better. I am considering putting a gauge at both points on the back of the block. As well as a bypass line from the stock sending hole to the passenger side hole on the back of the block.
