I have owned these headers on the shelf for several years. About a week ago I decided to take them to be sandblasted and the coated. Shop called and said the passenger side header had some pin holes on the lower tube, a bit thin from the rust. In any event, they will not work for me. Maybe someone can repair and use. My best guess is that they are Poston headers, as they look identical to the current ones on my 71. They are bare metal. Otherwise in great shape. Probably expensive to ship. Located in CT. $200 plus shipping.
Ugh.... seriously.....on my end they are. Thanks let me see what I did wrong uploading. I uploaded them to my media first. Let me see
Given the pitting that is evident in the pictures, and figuring the inside of the tubes are probably worse, mig welding them would be an extremely arduous task. The welder will almost certainly just blow through the tube even on the lowest setting. Maybe a tig weld would work but it would still be very difficult and I doubt there would be any longevity to the repair.
How about brazing, then? Silver solder? J-B Weld? We can't just give up on the patient without a fight! : )
The real solution is a skin graft. Cut out the bad parts of the pipe or whole sections of the pipe and weld in new. If you can weld, it is probably cheaper than new. If you have to pay to get it welded, you might be close to new price. For someone that can weld, these would likely be a good starting point to put them in something the normally wouldn't fit in like a rear steer big car.
https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/beware-of-bigjoe-joe-medrano-resolved.371031/page-2 FYI he stiffed a board member for $8500....
I may still be interested in trying to resurrect these headers--they don't look much worse than the Hookers that have been on my GS since I bought it in 1977. Do you happen to know if these are the same design as the Hookers? Tube lengths and angles, and collector placement? If so, I think I will want to add to them to my hoard, and try my welding skills on them. Thanks!
Brazing will not blow holes thur the headers. Best way as far as i'am concerned. Silver solder and JB weld can't holdup to the header heat. Vet
Good to know. I have had good results when brazing on other stuff, but those parts didn't have to endure header temperatures.
I big worry I have is how thin the header metal is and how large an area the rot extends too. If it turns out to be a large area, you might have to braze a patch. May not look pretty but it will be a lot cheaper than to buy a new set of headers. Vet
Brazing doesn't become liquid until it reaches 800 degrees F. Looks to me, the rot is closer to the collector. You might have to take a digital heat gun on somebody else's headers to see that the temperature is closer to the collector. I don't know what max temperature at that location is. Vet
