455 cam selection

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by Ruston Kelly, Jan 3, 2004.

  1. Ruston Kelly

    Ruston Kelly Thunder from Down Under

    I'm looking at pulling the 455 [SF block] out of my 64 Skylark after it sucked in the squirter nozzle screw off the holley,so i figured i'd go for a new cam whilst rebuilding it.
    I've been looking at Poston and TA's site to get an idea of what's available,only to end up more confused than when I started!!
    Here's the list of cams I reckon might work best for my combo which I'm running at the moment:
    TA 113,TA118,TA212 Poston GS107
    I'm installing either 355 or 323's behind the TH350,15"wheels,
    265x60 tyres.
    I've got a TA inlet topped with an 850 holley,I'll keep the compression on the low side so as to run 98 octane fuel. I like the lumpy idle the GS107 offers.
    I want to run the stock valve train,I've got gallery diverter etc from YEAR ONE ,
    Anyways what will give me the best performance without sacrificing reliability with basically stock components as listed.
    Also what did the motor come from originally,I found the SF in the engine number beside the dip stick,what was the specs for this motor,any advise would be greatly appreciated!!!!
     
  2. 71GS455

    71GS455 Best Package Wins!

    The SF code was for the 1970 "big cars", basically the non Skylark Gran Sports that came with a 455. They actually had compression at 10:1, which isn't necessarily considered low these days.

    It was rated at 370 horse for its day. It is essentially the same motor that went into the GS455 that didn't come with a Stage 1.

    98 octane is pretty high, you can get away with your compression and run a pretty stout cam, depending on what you're looking for.

    Are you going to be putting new pistons in it? If so, that will effect your compression ratio.

    My first thought was the TA 288-94H cam. In some builds it has made over the 500 hp range, yet it seems like it should be a pretty driveable cam that won't require that you modify the valve train, although you'll want to get some Stage 1 replacement springs.

    I'm sure you'll get a bunch of recommendations. You may want to consider joining the BPG. Currently TA is having a sale that includes their cams and lifters along with the Stage 1 springs and retainers are on sale. Those add up to $37 in savings, not to mention the gaskets are on sale too!

    You can see the special, and what you need to know about joining the BPG here:
    http://www.taperformance.com/bpg_specials.htm

    Good luck!
     
  3. Ruston Kelly

    Ruston Kelly Thunder from Down Under

    Hi Steve, thanks for your reply,I'd looked at the TA 288-94H,but cuoldn't find much about it ie. running the auto,mild head work.
    I forgot to mention that as it's in a right hand drive car,it will be using the stock exhaust manifolds due to lack of space between the steering shaft and the engine.I believe the same probleme would exsist in left hand cars as well.
    Does any one know what dual stage master cylinder will fit?
    There is'nt much room between the stock one and the rocker cover,about half an inch!!
     
  4. 71GS455

    71GS455 Best Package Wins!

  5. Ruston Kelly

    Ruston Kelly Thunder from Down Under

    I gave TA a call,the cam they recommend TA 113 has a bit more duration on the exhaust side and should bring the power in a bit earlier and make it to 5500 which would reduce component stress.
    Has any one had any experience with this cam or this engine combo in an A body coupe?
     
  6. Leviathan

    Leviathan Inmate of the Month

    There's quite a few people on the boards using the 288-94H, particularly with manifolds and a goal of a good idle.

    I just went through the cam selection insanity myself, a good way to look around is to do a search here for "cam selection" and read what the other have done.
     
  7. Ruston Kelly

    Ruston Kelly Thunder from Down Under

    Thanks for the input!!!Without back tracking through my TA stuff is the 288-94h the lumpier cam? I thought the 113 made more power? My main concern is maintaining the stock rocker ratio and not having to rev the thing.I'd rather be at the 2500 stall out to around 5500 rpm which I believe the TA113 should be good for.
    3:73 is a bit deep for me for highway driving with a 3spd auto so I'll probably stick to 3:55or 3:23 ratio,should still get off ok. I don't know what et's to expect.
    I'll try that search now as well.
     
  8. 71GS455

    71GS455 Best Package Wins!

    TA C113
    .478" .475"
    228 247 @ .050 lift
    113 lobe center
    2500-6000 operating range

    TA 288-94H
    .488" .488"
    230 240 @ .050 lift
    114 lobe center
    2000-6000 operating range

    TA's cam page says that the cams are listed "from lowest performance to highest". The TA 288-94H is listed after the c113 and the c118.

    They have similar lift numbers, but the 113 has a lot more duration on the exhaust. The difference between the advertised duration and the @ .050 number is tighter on the 113. Does it ramp up a bit quicker?
     
  9. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    Ruston

    I have noticed several points of near universal agreement from all the great car minds on this Board.

    --It is the entire package that makes for a quick car.

    --The most power and torque gain is derived from modifying or changing the heads.

    --The cheapest power per buck is from the addition of headers followed closely by a big carb like a HP 950.


    The cam selection seems relatively speaking to be down the list.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 13, 2004
  10. 66Sportwagon

    66Sportwagon Active Member

    Aussie Dude,

    The easiest way to a dual master cylinder is to swap on a unit from a 67 drum brake car. I don't know if it will fit a RHD car though.
    You ought to consider a front disc brake swap. there are several companies that offer a disc kit that bolts on to your stock spindles, Master Power Brakes is one that comes to mind. Also, Global West and Hotchkis offer GM-based kits that utilize late model spindles (that are more robust and give better handling) and stock GM brake parts. Be sure and tell them you have a RHD car, since you may not be able to use power brakes if valve cover clearance is a problem.
     
  11. Ruston Kelly

    Ruston Kelly Thunder from Down Under

    THANKS again to those who replied to my thread!! While my head is still spinning after going thru all the old threads relating to this topic,most seem to apply to the "big" cars. It sounds like the 113 might make up for the lack of headers[ would this be fair to assume?] and the 288-94H ought to get the "lighter" car movin' in earlier revs,but needs the gears [ref: trishieldperf ]
    I gave a brief description of the package in the start of the thread in regards to CR ,trans, gear ratio, wheel and tyres etc. so had left the cam selection to last,to try and ascertain the best selection to get the desired result,so all being said and done I'm thinking the TA 288-94H ought to do the job and I'll look at spending a bit more on head work,mainly on the exhaust side.
    Now I've got to work on using either 3:23 or :55's and sorting the brakes to pull it up!!!!
     
  12. mrgransport

    mrgransport Well-Known Member

    I run a 430 with 9:1 , B4B, quadrajet, KB107 cam and stock heads. It is in a full weight 70 GS and runs 12.20's. Kinda like the lumpy idle myself.
     
  13. 66Sportwagon

    66Sportwagon Active Member

    Aussie Dude,
    The guy running 3.73s has a 200-4R overdrive tranny.
    I've kind of figured out over the years that V8 american iron likes 3.23 gears for all purpose driving. 3.55s and lower are great around town (and the track) , but on the highway the engine revs too high, and gas mileage sucks. The 2.73- 2.92 gears are great on the highway, but acceleration is disappointing. 3.08-3.23 are a good compromise - 3.08s if you do a lot of highway driving, and 3.23 for an all purpose gear. Just my opinion.
     
  14. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    I concur with the 3.23 with the T 400 tranny. We use that gear in one of our cars. It is also more readily available than some others for an 8.2. Taking into consideraton the wide open spaces there, the little bit you leave on the table off the line is not worth the high revs at road speeds. With your power to weight ratio and the high low end torque, tire spin is going to be more of an issue even with the 3.23.
     
  15. Ruston Kelly

    Ruston Kelly Thunder from Down Under

    I'ts running 3:08 's in it at the moment,but it'll easerly run it off the speedo!! So 3:23's will be the way to go,my other cars like'em as well. Does any know where I can get the right speedo drive gear,as I can't get them here and haven't been able to locate them anywhere else.
    I've had no problemes running the TH350 so far,though I've got a couple of 400's under the bench just in case,in the "light" A body I can't see any advantage to carrying the weight of the 400 when considering the total package.
    I've been onto TA this morning an ordered up the stg1 valve springs,adjustable oil pressure valve,grooved cam bearings,double roller timing chain and after further discussion with tech advisor,the TA 113 cam,which should get it going with out sacrificing reliabilty.
    I have'nt much input in regards to this combo[455 in the'64 A body] which suprises me,as to go fast/quick I've always thought to putting the biggest motor in the smaller car was the way to go!
     
  16. slimfromnz

    slimfromnz Kiwi Abroad

    What was the price of the valve springs AUD?

    Royden
     
  17. 66Sportwagon

    66Sportwagon Active Member

    Aussie Dude,

    That motor is going to run great in that body. BTW, Steven Dove's book, Guide to Buick Performance Engines, is a good one to get although it's a couple of years old. You can find it on the internet, or possibly at Poston's or Year One. It shows your SF motor coming out of a 1970 Riviera, specs are 370 Horsepower, 510 FtLbs of torque, and a 10:1 compression ratio.
     
  18. Ruston Kelly

    Ruston Kelly Thunder from Down Under

    I've been using that book as guide for awhile now as well,very informitive I reckon!!
    I remember seeing another book around years ago,but didn't buy it. Titled "The Buick Power Book" it had a black cover and was'nt real thick,sort of like a magazine more than a book per'se'.
    Does anyone know of this book or recommend it?
     

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